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Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
DML Pz. IV Ausf G
Henk
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: August 07, 2004
KitMaker: 6,391 posts
Armorama: 4,258 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 01, 2008 - 01:05 AM GMT+7
Fido, I'll shoot you a PM reply when I get out of bed (I work nights.. , and yes ,I drive a truck.. ).

wbill76
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Texas, United States
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 03:47 PM GMT+7
Fido,

Thanks for the comments and welcome back to the hobby! I use a very small compressor for the airbrush, a 1/3 HP hobby specific model with no tank, that might be something you could consider for noise control? It's very small/compact and low noise.

As far as brush painting, there are some very accomplished modelers who only brush-paint. Unfortunately I'm not one of them, but it's possible to get very good results with just brush painting, but it takes a different approach and tool set to accomplish. Feel free to post or ask questions here in the forum and I'm sure those who are able will provide plenty of advice and pointers on how to achieve good results via brush painting.
cfsfido
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Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 25, 2008
KitMaker: 42 posts
Armorama: 39 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 - 12:48 PM GMT+7
wbill76:
I first want to thank you for sharing your talents with us. Even though it has been thirty five plus years since I last built a model, I remember how tedious it can be, yet you took on the added task of documenting it for us, once again, my heartfelt thanks.
Seeing that I have yet to cut my first piece of sprue, even though I have purchased a Dragon Sd.Kfz. 251/17 D with a 2 cm. Schwebelafettte, I feel like a newbie. So maybe you will forgive a newbie question. Through out your build you use an airbrush; well I live in a first floor mid terrace flat, and even the thought of compressor noise is too loud. Have you ever achieved similar results using only a brush? Just wondered if it was even possible.

Thanks for the great blog.
Fido
wbill76
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Texas, United States
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 - 09:25 AM GMT+7
Thanks milvehfan, appreciate the comments.

Wayne, my pleasure, hope it's helpful to you.
CB1000h
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: March 01, 2006
KitMaker: 358 posts
Armorama: 304 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 - 12:35 AM GMT+7
I also pic this one up at mosquito con and the build has been helpful
Just starting it now
Thanks for putting yours up
Wayne
milvehfan
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 26, 2007
KitMaker: 2,098 posts
Armorama: 1,075 posts
Posted: Monday, April 07, 2008 - 08:59 PM GMT+7
Awesome Winter Camo. Very Nice & Realistic .
wbill76
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Texas, United States
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Monday, April 07, 2008 - 08:32 PM GMT+7
Thanks Marc, hope it's helpful for you. The IV G Smart Kit is a fun one to build.
wing_nut
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: June 02, 2006
KitMaker: 1,153 posts
Armorama: 674 posts
Posted: Monday, April 07, 2008 - 08:19 PM GMT+7
I just picked up this kit at MosquitoCon and was searching for pics and reviews. I came across your build. All I can say is wow. And this is bookmarked for when my builds starts.
wbill76
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Texas, United States
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 14, 2008 - 12:01 PM GMT+7
Thanks Ales, appreciate the comments.
Galwitz
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Connecticut, United States
Joined: June 12, 2007
KitMaker: 491 posts
Armorama: 401 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 14, 2008 - 02:57 AM GMT+7
Great blog and awesome result. Thanks for sharing, Bill. I especially appreciate all the "watch -for" and "how-to" parts...
wbill76
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Texas, United States
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 14, 2008 - 02:29 AM GMT+7
Matt, Jeff, appreciate the comments!
sgtreef
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Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 5,612 posts
Armorama: 4,015 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 - 10:33 PM GMT+7
Ditto ↑.

Enough said.
f1matt
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Manitoba, Canada
Joined: August 13, 2006
KitMaker: 1,021 posts
Armorama: 805 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 - 09:13 PM GMT+7
One of the best white washes I have ever seen. And it's not even white!

Bill, you keep getting better and better.

-Matt
wbill76
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Texas, United States
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Monday, February 11, 2008 - 01:27 PM GMT+7
Work wrapped on this one, all done!











wbill76
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Texas, United States
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 05:37 AM GMT+7
Martin,

The method is pretty straight forward but you do have to be mindful that the pigments will slightly stain and aren't 100% removable due to the "tooth" of the underlying Flat coat and the fact that the pigments, when dissolved in water, become much finer than just as the powder. The water application does have the added bonus of "fixing" the pigments though, no additional treatment or sealer is required.

Rick, Darby

Appreciate the comments! I always try to explain the "how it got there" vs. the "then a miracle happened" approach...I myself have learned quite a bit from reading the "how" from other modelers, the least I can do is return the favor.

Jeff, Mike, Plasticat, Ethan, Henk, and Scott,

My pleasure and thanks!

Spiff
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Nevada, United States
Joined: September 07, 2002
KitMaker: 807 posts
Armorama: 671 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 04:55 AM GMT+7
Very nice work on your PzKpfw IV Ausf. G Bill! I'm diggin' the winter scheme!
darbycrash
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California, United States
Joined: June 03, 2007
KitMaker: 16 posts
Armorama: 15 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 04:36 AM GMT+7
Great looking build, and I appreciate the commentary on what techniques you used along the way.
Henk
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: August 07, 2004
KitMaker: 6,391 posts
Armorama: 4,258 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 04:21 AM GMT+7
Outstanding job Bill, a superb Pz. IV.

Cheers
Henk
imagoodsniper
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: December 26, 2006
KitMaker: 123 posts
Armorama: 111 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 03:40 AM GMT+7
looks really good cant wait to see the final pictures.
Plasticat
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Idaho, United States
Joined: September 03, 2003
KitMaker: 443 posts
Armorama: 244 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 03:08 AM GMT+7
A great SBS! Thanks for sharing, it looks so easy when "you" do it.......


redmike
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Ohio, United States
Joined: March 06, 2006
KitMaker: 129 posts
Armorama: 118 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 02:46 AM GMT+7
Great job man ,you always seem to get the finish just right. Very realistic .
sgtreef
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Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 5,612 posts
Armorama: 4,015 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 02:13 AM GMT+7
Kick Butt Job Bill real Kick Butt.

Need to save this one for when we get around to building one.

Thanks for sharing.
sauceman
#044
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: September 28, 2006
KitMaker: 2,672 posts
Armorama: 2,475 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 02:12 AM GMT+7
Thanks for the update, looking very professional!

I really do appreciate the fact that in your summaries you actually describe how you achieve the desired results, rather than just say what you do.

cheers
Martinnnn
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Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 5,435 posts
Armorama: 2,762 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 01:58 AM GMT+7
That's looking really good! I'll try the pigments technique you used on the lower hull as well. Seems like a fairly easy but effective method.

Martin
wbill76
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Texas, United States
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 05:20 PM GMT+7
A lot of progress made actually yesterday and today but I held off posting the updates as the majority of the work was done today. First in line was a coat of Future applied overall to the vehicle and allowed to set for a couple of hours before the decal markings were applied. The markings are fairly straightforward, just a set of turret numbers and the Totenkopf emblem on the front and rear. The Totenkopf was an interesting arrangement, it's actually 3 parts with the white background as one decal, followed by the eyes/nose of the skull, and then the jaw line as the final piece. These were all applied and given a dose of Walther's Solvaset to insure they snugged down tight to the surface. Then a second coat of Future was applied and left to set again, this time overnight since it was a Friday.



Starting out this morning, I began the weathering process by applying a pin wash of Raw Umber to all the different detail surfaces. The wash is a mix of about 90/10 Thinner/Raw Umber enamels and the brush is a 3/0 sable brush.



The beauty of the Future sealing coats is that the underlying coat is thoroughly protected and the wash I applied can now be adjusted and worked into the finish or removed as needed. To do this, I use the same 3/0 brush as before but use a spare mixing bottle with clean thinner to coax the excess wash into places where I want it to go or remove it entirely.



For example, in the photo below, you'll see on the left side the forward portion of the hull has had the wash adjusted while on the right side the rear engine deck hasn't yet received its attention. By working carefully and wiping the brush on a paper towel frequently to avoid paint build-up, the wash can be fine-tuned to very tight tolerances and any tide-markes removed or blended in.



Going over the whole vehicle, I spent about 3 hours adjusting the wash until I was satisfied with the results on both the hull and turret.



The entire vehicle was then given a coat of Testor's Lusterless Flat in the rattlecan and allowed to thoroughly dry before moving on to the next step of weathering the suspension and running gear. I opted for a mix of Russian Dark Earth and Dark Mud Mig Pigments and added them together at a roughly 50-50 ratio into a prescription bottle lid and mixed them together as a dry-powder first.



Then I added ordinary tap water to produce a wet mixture and applied it with a 0 round sable brush and allowed it to air-dry.



The best way to describe the next step in the process is "addition by subtraction" meaning that the desired effect is achieved by carefully removing the pigments from the areas where they were too heavy or I didn't want them to be. To do this, I go over the surface first with a set of stiff bristled brushes, while wearing a dust mask to avoid inhaling the fine pigment powder, and then follow-up with moistened q-tips to further remove or blend the pigments.



Once that's done, then I carefully dry-brush some Steel on the track faces on the front and rear for their wear.



And that's where it stands...I'll let it sit overnight and then check to see if any adjustments need to be made and then it's off to the photo-booth for the final completion shots.