Step 1 starts where most kits start, with the road wheels, sprockets, idlers, and return rollers. I removed all the road wheels and trimmed/sanded down their seams and set them off to the side for much later when I do the hull painting. The sprockets were assembled without any issues. The idlers have a very nice detail in the form of PE rim inserts that required some careful removal from the fret to avoid bending them and had a couple of nubs that needed cleanup, accomplished with careful use of a grinding head on the Dremel.
This step also calls for the assembly of the idler mounts and the diagrams are a little tricky here and aren't exactly crystal clear. You have to be sure to attach the screw arm covers, B2/B3, correctly for them to line up properly when they are attached to the hull in Step 4. I test fit both sides multiple times before committing to glue just to be sure I had them lined up correctly. The design of the parts means that the idlers are not positionable but will be fixed in place once installed, something to bear in mind if you choose to go the aftermarket route for Fruils or MKs instead of the kit-supplied indy links.
Step 2 is a simple step, it installs the lower half portions of the fender support arms. The parts in question are all labelled as "blue" A sprue parts since there's more than one A sprue, so don't panic if you don't find them on the first A sprue you hunt for them on. I also removed the tabs on the hull sides with sprue cutters at this point since the instructions don't tell you to ever remove them and they will interfere with the fender installation in later steps if left in place.
Next up, Step 3 deals with the installation of the torsion bar suspension and arms. The layout on the sprues makes it a little tricky at first glance to tell the difference between the A1 and A2 bars, so look closely as there are 6 per side and they all need to match up properly to avoid issues with installing the arms themselves. The default on the kit is a non-workable suspension however that can easily be modified by removing the support pins on the hull and not gluing the torsion bars down but rather keeping them "trapped" by the interior caps (parts A4/B18) if you like. I chose to install them in the fixed position and even with that, there's a little bit of play in the arms, so alignment checks after each one was installed were necessary to keep everything lined up and level.
So far so good!