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Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
DML Flakpanzer 38(t)
c5flies
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California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 03, 2008 - 08:54 PM GMT+7
Thanks John and Matt! It's a great kit to put together.

Matt, it looks like the pedestal is between 9mm- 9.25mm from the floor plate to where the bottom of the flak rotates. HTH, looking forward to seeing some progress
gringe88
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New York, United States
Joined: April 23, 2006
KitMaker: 64 posts
Armorama: 57 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 03, 2008 - 08:28 PM GMT+7
excellent finish James! I really like the weathering job you pulled off. watching you go through this build has got me going on my own now!

just a side question, can you tell me the height in milimeters, of the sides of the mount the 20mm sits on? i can make rough estimates from some pics i have but id really appreciate it if you could give me an actual measurement.

great job once again!

-matt
This post was removed.
jjumbo
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British Columbia, Canada
Joined: August 27, 2006
KitMaker: 2,012 posts
Armorama: 1,949 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2008 - 09:58 PM GMT+7
Beautiful job James !!
Picked up one of these kits a few weeks ago and have been actively watching your build.
Cheers

jjumbo
c5flies
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California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2008 - 09:01 PM GMT+7
Thanks again, guys, this is most certainly a kit I recommend and enjoyed. What's next? As redundant as it sounds, a Marder III M for the Eastern Front Campaign
jimz66
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Connecticut, United States
Joined: December 15, 2006
KitMaker: 1,159 posts
Armorama: 1,104 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 - 04:11 PM GMT+7
Awesome James, you should make this one into a feature. Nice build, It was great to follow along with it! What's next? Great job!
neil22
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Cotes-d`Armor, France
Joined: August 12, 2007
KitMaker: 292 posts
Armorama: 281 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 - 02:57 PM GMT+7
hi
well i have followed this build from about the start and its come out great! i like your camo.
great build!

neil
viennant
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Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: May 07, 2008
KitMaker: 46 posts
Armorama: 41 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 - 02:44 PM GMT+7
Very nice
wbill76
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Texas, United States
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 - 02:34 PM GMT+7
Nice work on this one James, the wrenches and rags are a nice touch.
c5flies
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California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, July 29, 2008 - 11:50 PM GMT+7
It's time to put this baby to sleep and start on something new. The tracks were painted with my track paint, which is a mixture of brown, gray and blue. Washes of....you guessed it....brown and burnt sienna, and drybrushed with metallic gray. This is actually the only area of the model that I drybrush.

Tracks were installed with the sprockets, idlers and return rollers and still need a little fine tuning. To cover up the hatch padding that I wasn't too keen on I made a couple of rags out of facial tissue and found a couple of wrenches in a Voyager kit I just picked up. Thanks for following along on this and thanks for the suggestions and encouragement! On with the pics already .........................



















c5flies
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California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
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Posted: Monday, July 28, 2008 - 09:26 PM GMT+7
Thank you gentlemen

Jens, the streaks were done with a mixture of brown and burnt sienna oil paint, dabbed on with a toothpick and pulled down with a brush wet with thinner. Sometimes I miss, like on the trans hatch where I wanted it on the rivet but it went off to the side. In cases like that I just wipe it clean and redo it (didn't see that until after the pic). The oil paint gives me a good 24 hours to work with before it starts drying too much

Jeff, glad your still following along on this

James, I've been thinking about a Hold-n-Fold, though that'll be sometime in the future!
jimz66
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Connecticut, United States
Joined: December 15, 2006
KitMaker: 1,159 posts
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Posted: Monday, July 28, 2008 - 02:45 PM GMT+7
Looking very good James. I know what it's like to be a slow builder say no more. We all do what we can, when we can. I think it's time for you to think about a hold and fold or Etche mate. Keep it coming. Looking excellent.
PantherF
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Indiana, United States
Joined: June 10, 2005
KitMaker: 6,188 posts
Armorama: 5,960 posts
Posted: Monday, July 28, 2008 - 08:22 AM GMT+7
Stunning work. I like how you explained the magic track assembly, makes more sense to me know. The wash is a nice touch and a great choice of color too. The rubber on the wheels is even more convincing now that it is surrounded by some tracks.

Nice build and photos James!
rustey
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Noord-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: June 23, 2007
KitMaker: 101 posts
Armorama: 24 posts
Posted: Monday, July 28, 2008 - 05:09 AM GMT+7
SWEET weathering!! what paint did you use for the rust on the flak canon?

Jens
c5flies
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California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
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Posted: Sunday, July 27, 2008 - 09:07 PM GMT+7
I love magic tracks, they go together easily and look pretty good. The instructions call for 96 links per side, so I started with 90 links and then will see how many will be needed once mounted. I use Testors liquid for these since it seems to give me more flex then Tamiya super thin. While they were setting up enough to work with the roadwheels were glued on. Sprockets, idlers and return rollers were left off at this time.

I wrap the track around the sprocket first, leaving enough to go under the first roadwheel....



Then thread it thru, around the idler with the return roller which is just tacked on with Blu-tac or even some tape. The reason for not having the return glued on is there is not enough clearance between the fender to clear the guide horns. Roll up some paper to shove in if you want sag (thanks Doog!) and get everything in position. Now I can see how many more links I'll need, which amazingly came out to 6!



I let them dry for a few hours or overnight, pop them off, and since these are not handed I mark the left track by cutting away a small section that won't be seen. This way, after painting I'll know where they go.



I usually have the pioneer tools on before painting the model, but since I could not get the DML PE clasps to work I had to order some AM ones. Thanks to Bill & Ron's suggestion I picked up a Griffon Models set, and will most likely use these in all future builds. So the pioneer tools got painted and then attached, no further problems with that.

The instructions don't show the jack block (unless I missed that too) but one is included and is usually stored directly in front of the second fender bracket. Detail is weak on the block, so if you don't want to use it one can be fabricated or snatched out of the spares box.

The Flak was now attached along with the antenna, some final weathering and now just awaiting the tracks.









Thanks for looking......comments, critiques, suggestions and/or questions always welcome
c5flies
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California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
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Posted: Saturday, July 26, 2008 - 05:05 PM GMT+7
I can't believe I've been working on this for 3 months, time to start wrapping it up! With the Flak built, it was painted in Dunklegelb to be weathered with the rest. The ammo cases got a brown wash and a little wear and tear with a graphite pencil.



I like to have mostly everything built and in place on the model before I paint, leaving just the tracks/running gear for last. Not so with this kit it would appear! The engine compartment and drivers hatches were installed to get ready for the first washes.



The small details like the seats, cannisters, radios etc. were painted in the fighting compartment and an overall wash of brown was applied. I put this on heavy to start with and then remove most of it with a soft cloth to blot up the excess and a brush with thinner to do the final adjustment. After this came a sienna wash, which I'm still adjusting the color as it has too much orange. Here's a shot of the first 2 washes and a trial fit of the Flak.



Spare tracks were assembled, painted and washed with brown and sienna and put in place. The four ammo cases went into their PE holders and the spare barrel case installed. I left this open since there is some nice detail in there. If you want to have ammo cases in the left and/or right single holders on the gun platform I'd recommend putting them in before the PE holders are in place.

Previously I stated that part R8 wasn't shown in the instructions, it is shown in step 19, that'll teach me to pay attention and follow the instructions







Thanks for looking, suggestions always welcome!
c5flies
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Joined: October 21, 2007
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Posted: Saturday, July 26, 2008 - 05:05 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

James you have come a very long way in a short time, paint, PE, and construction are of a very high standard (what are you using to bend PE now), your photography is also of a very high standard. Your blogging/writing style creates an easy to read, understand, and informative piece which clearly explains what you have done and how. Damn I tried so hard to look for a negative.

Well done and keep up the great work



Darren, thank you, that really means a lot to me. I still have a long way to go and I'm running pretty much low-tech, slowly building up paints, tools, references etc.. As far as PE goes, the best purchase I've made to help with that has been an Optivisor, otherwise my other high-tech PE tools are shown below The pointed tweezers have about a 1mm gap at the tip and are pretty much useless, think I'll treat myself to some new ones!

CMOT
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ARMORAMA
#406
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: May 14, 2006
KitMaker: 10,065 posts
Armorama: 8,011 posts
Posted: Friday, July 25, 2008 - 02:05 AM GMT+7
James you have come a very long way in a short time, paint, PE, and construction are of a very high standard (what are you using to bend PE now), your photography is also of a very high standard. Your blogging/writing style creates an easy to read, understand, and informative piece which clearly explains what you have done and how. Damn I tried so hard to look for a negative.

Well done and keep up the great work
c5flies
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California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
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Posted: Friday, July 25, 2008 - 12:30 AM GMT+7
Jeff, happy to hear you're enjoying this, thanks!

Bill, that's a relief that I'm not alone in spending the time removing details, only to spend more time trying to get them back on

James, sometimes I'm a very slow builder and even slower to post! I'm a bit further along, weathering and still working on the details. Stay tuned!

Bob, thanks! It's starting to come together

Thanks for the comments, guys.
whittman181
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: December 30, 2006
KitMaker: 646 posts
Armorama: 473 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 24, 2008 - 11:49 PM GMT+7
Looking real good and the running gear came out awesome Bob
jimz66
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Connecticut, United States
Joined: December 15, 2006
KitMaker: 1,159 posts
Armorama: 1,104 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 24, 2008 - 01:40 PM GMT+7
Looking great James. I was wondering what was happing to this one. I am very interested in how this one is going to come out. Keep going. Almost there!!!!!!!!!!!
wbill76
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Texas, United States
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 24, 2008 - 09:30 AM GMT+7
James,

Making good progress! You have indeed identified an area on the base of the Flak 38 that many often remove as mold seams but are actually an intentionally included detail that should be left in place. The first time I built a DML Flak 38 I dilligently removed them only to find out they belonged there in the first place! Weathering on the wheels looks very nice, looking forward to more.
PantherF
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Indiana, United States
Joined: June 10, 2005
KitMaker: 6,188 posts
Armorama: 5,960 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 24, 2008 - 08:32 AM GMT+7
I've really enjoyed watching this build! Very educational and inspiring. The work on the road wheels rubber is convincing to me!

Can't wait to see more! Thanks for sharing it.
c5flies
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California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
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Posted: Thursday, July 24, 2008 - 12:18 AM GMT+7
Much has been done in the last 2 weeks but I'll post my progress in sections. With the basics of the vehicle complete work began on the Flak. Another very busy section in the instructions with quite a few sub-assemblies and some choices to be made.

First up was the left and right frames, one thing to watch for when cleaning them up is what appears at first glance to be mold lines (at least to these old eyes) are actually welds. There are also mold lines where other components fit, so clean up accordingly.



Gun and sight shields were often removed, to give the crew more room and also for a lower profile. Reference photos show both with and without in combat duty, and I chose to see how the kit parts go together. The gun sight shield has a 1 piece styrene or 7 piece PE option, after assembling and setting the two side by side I opted for the styrene. Even though thicker I thought it showed more details, extra details could be added to the PE one if desired. Also, looking ahead, the main gun shield is only offered in styrene, so the scale of the 2 shield thicknesses would be very evident. Too bad the PE parts from the original DML Flak kit weren't included.





The moveable front shield PE brackets are included, though the instructions do not show them as an option. These I decided to use, even though when all completed will be barely visible. I removed the styrene mounting tabs since it seemed like a good idea at the time!







Other options at this point are early (pilot version) or late (production) gun sight, since I'm going for a production model the late sight was used. 3 choices of receiver covers are offered, and I believe either the ribbed (J2) or smooth (J4) would be correct, and I would lean more towards the smooth cover for accuracy. But in the end I chose the ribbed since I liked the appearance better!

In step 16 are shown 4 options for the elevation rod and this is where you skip to step 18 and decide on either 0, 20, 40 or 60 degree elevation as each uses different parts. Couple of items to note, Part A29 fits into both part A43 and A58 so be sure to line them up. The instructions indicate removing 2 angle brackets off the gun floor plate, but do not show that part R8 gets fastened in this area.





The front shield lower sections have an option of different styles (A56,A57 or R9,R10) I used the R parts, if using the A parts check for clearance as the seem to be too large for the fighting compartment to allow the gun to traverse. Again, I didn't check this out closely but the difference can be seen in the photo below, the lower left is A57 and lower right is R10. The inner pieces are offered in styrene or PE, with no option shown on the instructions. I went with the PE parts here and won't go into the stupid mistake I made with them at this time!







Found a couple of extra straps on the PE fret, although a bit long they still are better than nothing for the jack.



And the weathering has started on the wheels.



Thanks for looking



c5flies
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California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
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Posted: Thursday, July 10, 2008 - 11:52 PM GMT+7
Bill, thanks! That camo pattern is always a bit of a challenge for me, as I tend to make the lines too long. The 'unholy sprockets' has a mean ring to it, doesn't it

Tim, hopefully you'll get this one on the bench soon. Very nice kit that I'm sure you'll enjoy. Thanks for the compliments! I see you'll be building the M4 mortar carrier,(another fun build IMO) looking forward to following along on that one. Gary Kato wrote a very helpful review on that, check it out if you haven't already!

James, glad you stopped in for a visit! The progress is so slow on this that you don't need to visit the forums often to keep up to date with it! Thanks for the encouragement