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For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Sd.Kfz.7 8t Late Production Build
NebLWeffah
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: October 13, 2004
KitMaker: 1,683 posts
Armorama: 1,248 posts
Posted: Friday, December 31, 2010 - 10:36 AM UTC
Hi Shaun

Great blog so far.... I'm just starting into this kit myself and will be following this with great interest.

thanks!
Bob
keenan
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Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,271 posts
Armorama: 2,843 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 - 12:44 PM UTC
Test fitting the hood it doesn't look too bad so I decided to wade into the PE in the side bar of step 11. I am leaving off the wind shield and the PE wind shield wipers until final assembly for two reasons: I haven't decided what color I am going to paint this beast yet and I want to take full advantage of the handy masks that come with the kit.
I did a test fit on the hood after some more gap filling and was fairly happy:


I also added a couple of parts C20 and four parts C9.

The whole MA9, MA10,MA11 scared the crap out of me until I did the first one. I have three more to do but I am really pleased with the first one.



I was dreading the PE hood details but now I am looking forward to doing the rest of them.

Stay tuned. Painting the road wheels with the circle template is next on the agenda so I can finish the running gear.
Shaun

lesrogers
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New South Wales, Australia
Joined: August 02, 2007
KitMaker: 50 posts
Armorama: 22 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 06, 2009 - 06:04 PM UTC

Hi Shaun
I have just caught up with you but was surprised to find that although my model is Dragon
Kit 6525 it is different to yours!
My section X is all one piece from front to rear.
Therefore the seating assembly is quite different to your model.
Had me confused for a while as the instructions for the seat assembly are vague so I thought I would use your knowledge and pictures,
No way.... they have changed the set up. My model is only a few months old and that may be the difference.
I finnaly worked it out.
So others beware!
Regards Les
keenan
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Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,271 posts
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Posted: Friday, December 04, 2009 - 12:49 PM UTC
Fixing the gaps on sides with filler was the best option.



However, after installing parts G9(G8) and E6 more gaps showed up, primarily between radiator assembly and the G9(G8) Some thing did not stack up right during the chassis assembly.
Gaps on both sides:



Actually pretty happy with the progress but cannot figure out what went went wrong to create all the gaps.

You will never see them when she is done, trust me. First coat of primer out of the rattle can on.
Looks almost painful, doesn't it.



Trust me, it will look fine.
Shaun

keenan
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Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,271 posts
Armorama: 2,843 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 - 01:54 PM UTC
Balance of the massive step 10:
I trimmed parts C2 backwards, what I thought was the sprue attached point was actually the pedal. No harm done. I sliced sections of sheet styrene and made new pedals.



I lost part D24 when I blew off the bench, I am sure it is hiding next to the headlight I lost three weeks ago. I any case, I made a new one out of stretched sprue and glued it in.



Now for the first issue I have had with the kit. There are gaps on both sides of the cab where E2(E3) and E18(E17) attach to the cab. It might be a Shaun issue but if the attachment points were more "positive" I don't think it would have happened. I will slice some shims and fill the gaps like the guys that build those winged things do and post pictures of that when that is finished. I would like to tell everyone how to avoid this issue but I have no idea. In any case, here are pictures of the gaps I am dealing with:





Not a huge issue for me but it may be for some younger modelers.

Shaun

lesrogers
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New South Wales, Australia
Joined: August 02, 2007
KitMaker: 50 posts
Armorama: 22 posts
Posted: Monday, November 30, 2009 - 05:50 PM UTC
A very timely post for me as I am about to start mine.
My Voyager PE 35299 for this model arrived today and it looks great.
That said I hope that my eyesight holds out as some of the parts are really small.
I expect the wheel masks to arrive in the next day or so and that will complete my extra pieces.

Keep it up Shawn I need the help.
Regards Les
c5flies
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California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Posted: Monday, November 30, 2009 - 04:43 PM UTC
I'm all eyes, Shaun....I just don't say much
keenan
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Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,271 posts
Armorama: 2,843 posts
Posted: Monday, November 30, 2009 - 02:12 PM UTC
Okay, Step nine and ten sub assemblies came together. Given the warnings about the how everything was going to fit together I went and skipped ahead a step and glued the assembby from step 10 to the chassis.
Everything was square...

Front side of the fire wall

Driver's side of the fire wall with out the dash board

Assembly 10 without parts D38, 59, 24, 25, 60, on purpose. I would knock them off later.

I really did not have any issues getting the major sub assembly from step 10 fitting on the chassis.



I hope there are some folks still following along
cach7
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New York, United States
Joined: October 13, 2002
KitMaker: 444 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 02:02 PM UTC
Thanks Herbert, i do realize that . I just wanted to throw something different on the back. I plan on having ammo, spareparts clothing food, basicly anything in the bed.
H_Ackermans
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Gelderland, Netherlands
Joined: July 11, 2006
KitMaker: 2,229 posts
Armorama: 2,221 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 01:38 PM UTC
Fieldkitchen would be a huge overkill to have an SdKfz 7 tow that. A Protze is enough for that.

Basically, what the 7 hauls is big guns and damaged tanks, nothing else.

About sanding small parts, what I usually do is cut the sprue as close to the part as I can, then fix it, and when it is dry, use sandpaper to get it cleaned up.

That way, I can handle it the best and it won't spring out of my hands.
cach7
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New York, United States
Joined: October 13, 2002
KitMaker: 444 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 01:09 PM UTC
Shaun i didnt have a square. I just followed instructions. Like you said that lip for the bench seat could be better. After i assembled it and placed it on the cab,you could see it pitched forward. So i took it apart and and cut away on part E19(lower bench). Still had to work to get it to cab to come together. My suggestion to anyone starting this kit is not to skip around on build. Especialy the cab!! I would like to have it towing something other then a gun. I was thinking a fieldkitchen. Anybody have thoughts on that?
keenan
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Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,271 posts
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Posted: Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 11:57 AM UTC
Funny you should mention that Mike.
Step 10:
D63,13,14,15, and E5:

Be careful cleaning up D63, it is fragile.


Front half of the firewall assembled. I set this aside to dry while I worked on seats, fenders and floor board.


Parts E7,8,15,16,19 &20


I cleaned everything up and had to page forward in the instructions to get an idea of how E8 and E19 went together. Some better attachment points would have been helpful here. I glued them together and checked to make sure the joint was square and set those two parts aside to dry.


Assembled E15,16, and 20, and set them aside...


Added D29, 30 and 31 to the inside of the firewall and set everything aside to dry over night.


Like Mike mentioned, there is no "good" way to locate E7 to E19 and then to the front fender assembly. Throw the firewall in the mix and the tomorrow may be dicey...

It is starting to look like a "big hauler" and I don't have any major complaints so far.
Input always welcome.
Shaun






cach7
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New York, United States
Joined: October 13, 2002
KitMaker: 444 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 04:12 PM UTC
Shaun, iam building the same kit. I had some fit issues wth the seat and cab. Maybe it s just me but let us know.
keenan
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Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,271 posts
Armorama: 2,843 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 02:07 PM UTC
Spent two hours on my hands and knees looking for that damn headlight. Really looking forward to shooting some paint on some of the sub assemblies.
Thanks for the feedback,
Shaun
c5flies
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California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 01:56 PM UTC
Even with the minor troubles, this one is looking real good so far, Shaun.
keenan
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Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,271 posts
Armorama: 2,843 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 11:57 AM UTC
Bad step. Had many troubles here, many of which I think were my fault...
There is no good way to hold parts C5 and A22 after they are glued together. Cleaning up the seam, one of the pair flew across the basement floor never to be seen again. My fault. So this rascal is going to have at least some minor battle damage.

Cleaning up the sprue attachment points on the Notek light was dicey, again, not much to hang on to. Folding PE part MA5 was easy and this assembly went together fairly well and I am happy with the result.


Now for the part I hard real problems with, stuffing the engine onto the frame and getting the front fenders to sit square. I had to trim, sand, test fit, trim and sand again. I am happy with the way everything ended up so far but I broke off part D56 and will have to see if I can get it back on correctly. To be honest, I almost gave up adding the engine since most of will not be seen anyway.

Step 9 completed (sort of) photos...





So this is the build log so far warts and all. Sorry for the infrequent updates. Now that things have gotten back down to a low roar at work and most of the house is sealed up for the winter I ought to be able to knock this out.
Shaun
keenan
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Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,271 posts
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2009 - 12:18 PM UTC
Part of Step 8:
G21, 22 and 26 on the sprue...


D46 and D7:



There is, again, no really good way to locate parts D46 and D7 together. Pretty much a by guess and by God type maneuver. Hopefully I have them together correctly.

I did get to add the first two PE parts, numbers MA14 and MA13.




On to the other side of the front fender assembly. If I can stuff everything together in step 9 I will feel like I actually accomplished something...

Shaun
Firecaptain
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Virginia, United States
Joined: November 03, 2006
KitMaker: 165 posts
Armorama: 118 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 25, 2009 - 05:46 AM UTC
Looking good Shaun....

FWIW........
On the drive sprockets.....one set I just cleaned up the inside nib remainders and the sprocket fit good and snug (if for whatever reason you did not want to glue it).
On my second one I cleaned it all up, sanded etc, and it falls off.....no friction fit on this one...they'll have to be glued,
jimz66
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Connecticut, United States
Joined: December 15, 2006
KitMaker: 1,161 posts
Armorama: 1,105 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 25, 2009 - 02:51 AM UTC
Looking good Shaun. Keep it coming.
keenan
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Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,271 posts
Armorama: 2,843 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 03:15 PM UTC
Now for some house cleaning:
Assembly D and E are dicey. You need to be careful cleaning the sprue attachment points from the I/D and the O/D. It is really easy to shave off one of the guide teeth, trust me...



Finished drive sprocket:



As much as I love this kit I am ready for the "fun" stuff. On to the front fender assembly in the next step. I am kinda tired of the chassis.
Thanks for bearing with the delays. They were unavoidable.

Shaun
keenan
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Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,271 posts
Armorama: 2,843 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 24, 2009 - 03:06 PM UTC
I think I have the infamous B1 in the right place. Couple of pictures of the over and under.



I never would have figured it out without Firecaptain's link. I printed it out and had to take it downstairs to cypher where B1 went. Thanks FC.
jimz66
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Connecticut, United States
Joined: December 15, 2006
KitMaker: 1,161 posts
Armorama: 1,105 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 18, 2009 - 02:13 PM UTC
Hope you got all things are settled in the basement. Your Halftrack is looking very good. Keep the updates coming.
keenan
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Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,271 posts
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Posted: Sunday, October 18, 2009 - 09:52 AM UTC
Nope. Getting ready to head downstairs and do that...
Left the best part for last.
Shaun
Firecaptain
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Virginia, United States
Joined: November 03, 2006
KitMaker: 165 posts
Armorama: 118 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 18, 2009 - 09:08 AM UTC
Did you wrestle with that part B1 yet?
keenan
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Indiana, United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,271 posts
Armorama: 2,843 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 18, 2009 - 03:58 AM UTC
Step 7:
I installed part B4 and assembly C in the previous step so this section entails B5 and all the parts attached to it.
Some minor clean up was needed on B5, but not much.


There is no good attachment point for part B46. Mine may be a little crooked. Added B49, B50 and B7. The instructions are confusing here. B50 and B7 are supposed to float but that is not indicated in the instructions.



Added B48 and B6.



The orientation of part B13 is not very clear in the instructions. Consult your references.
I left off parts B37 and B14. I will add them later so there is less chance of them getting lost or broken.
Subassembly:


Added to the chassis:


Watch this space.
Shaun