Hi folks

Made a move to start on the base and founds for the hut and gathered together the materials



Wood for shuttering a concrete base, all purpose filler for the concrete, aimes tape (used for covering joints in plasterboard to skim coat with plaster) to act as a bit of reinforcement through the plaster mix, thin but stiff metal strips that were shaped to form the bows.







Filler was a lot harder to get flat than I had thought as the mix would not self level



Bows laid in to get a feeling for the shape and size



Cardboard cut out, agian to get a feel for the shape. Am considering finding a foam board to cut out the front and rear panels which I want to make up as brickwork.



Corrugated tin foil for the sheeting







My hut should scale out at 24 foot span and 30 foot length. Just got to wait for the filler to set hard and give it a smooth down flat.

The frame should look like this (although set on a concrete base, not timber).



Nige

Where I am this morning



The work force are skiving and I am nackered myself



Time for bed and get some sleep.

Nige

Hi Nige

Looks good ! Interesting build and well done !

i would really need to get my hand on such a roller to make the corrugated sheets.

Cheers
Claude

Thanks Claude

Nige

Excellent stuff, god Nisan huts, the horror

Al

So this is what you used your extra paint tube squeezers for
when i seen them in the shop i thought i must be able to use them for something
now i know
Looking good so far, well done

Hi Folks

Hi Nick,,,,,,,,,,,, No probs on where to post, I was just unsure if I was just missing where other folks would post dios.

The build crew finished their fags and got the bits together to start erection !!!!!! OOOoo er Matron !!!!!!!


It does help if you remember to get the right glue for the job ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, all my aroldite appears to have gone off and the hardener is not doing any good what-so-ever to set the bleeding bows onto the plaster floor. It remains gooee even after hours and that was with the recommended mix.

I have attempted to follow a similar method of jointing the purlins to the bows by forming u bolts of wire which I have fed through the timber and simply twist to lock around the metal bows.



Getting the holes in the metal bows proved impossible and I risked splitting the only metal bows I have (and no spare metal of the thickness or type in my shed left) so instead I drilled the timbers through


Only got two of the five timber purlins on as it is quite fiddily to get the stiff metal bows to all sit true and in line without some lift or movement. Placed the sections of tin on for effect though I will be cutting these to scale ten foot lengths for the out side skin with 5 ten foot panels making one have circle scale two foot wide


Phot of Cultibraggan Camp (POW camp from 1939 and held Rudolph Hess for a period)




Hope to get this effect with the horizontal interior corrugation

Nige

Nige,

What are the orgins of these buildings? I call these Quonsett huts the building originated at Quonsett Point Rhode Island they were quick housing for any thing. The original building could be made bigger for other uses....

great construction ideas!

Michael

Tee hee,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Invented by a Brit and idea nicked by the Yanks !!!!!!!!

It is not surprising that during the course of World War I a design for a prefabricated, portable multi-purpose hut was developed. Sometime between the 16th and the 18th of April 1916, the then Major Peter Norman Nissen of the 29th Company Royal Engineers began to experiment with hut designs. Nissen, a middle-aged mining engineer and inventor, constructed three prototype semi-circular huts. The semi-circular shape was derived from the drill-shed roof at Queen's University, Kingston, Ontario. Nissen’s design was subject to intensive design review by his fellow officers, Lt Col’s Shelly, Sewell and McDonald and General Liddell, which helped Nissen develop the design.

After the third prototype was completed the design was formalised and the Nissen Hut was put into production in August 1916 (see Figure One). At least 100,000 were produced in World War I (McCosh 1997:82-108). Peter Norman Nissen, a Canadian mining engineer, developed the prefabricated shelter called the Nissen hut in 1916.

Nissen patented his invention in the UK in 1916 and later patents were taken out in the USA, Canada, South Africa and Australia. Nissen received royalties from the British government not for huts made during the war but for their sale after the conflict. Nissen got some £13,000 and the DSO!

Production of the Nissen waned between the wars but was revived in 1939. Nissen Buildings Ltd waived their patent rights for war-time production. Similar shaped hut types were developed as well, notably the Romney Hut in the UK and the Quonset huts in the USA. All types were mass produced in their thousands. The Nissen Hut was used for a wide range of functions, apart from accommodation they were used as churches and bomb stores, etc. (see Francis 1996, Innes 1998, 2000, Pullar 1997). A typical Quonset hut A Quonset hut is a lightweight prefabricated structure of corrugated steel having a semicircular cross section. ...

During World War Two the Nissen hut was produced along with a similar type, the Romney Hut. In the USA the Quonset hut and its derivatives were developed; the inital version was almost a copy of Nissen's design.

I spent quite a few nights in cold and damp nissan huts while in the TA. Did the job and was better than being out in a field without a tent.

Nige

This brings back a few memories cold nights with no fire and damp sleeping bag from condensation in the morning Looks great so far
Paul

YOU WIR LUCKEE

We lived in a cardboard box. We had to get up in the morning, and had to lick the road clean ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

MONTY PYTHON SKETCH always comes to mind !!!!!!!

Nige

The old one's are the best
Have you considered using the cork tile method for the bricks on the end-wall

Thanks Paul

You got a link to anyone's blog for doing a brick wall in cork. I can remember some good ones for stonework but not seen it used for brick.

Would be very interested to see.

Nige

I have seen a blog done and I will try to find it again then will post the link asap.
Paul

Hello Nige,

Another great metal work, love the method you used for the corragattion.

Robert

Robert

Last place to look always has what you're looking for Try this link :- https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/751&page=4

Paul

Hi Paul

Great mate !!!!!!!! Just what I am looking for and I am sure I also have a sheet of cork rolled up somewhere safe in the shed.

Not got a scooby doo clue why I bought it many years ago but if it is in the shed !!!!! Woo hoo.!!!!

Will have a look tomorrow.

Cheers

Nige

Was so nackered trying to get the metal bows to sit upright while the glue set and while getting the first two purlins attached by wire and glue to all five bows. Woke up to find the glue had finally set and miracle of miracles the bows stayed vertical ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, RESULT.

Wondered if I could get away with just wiring the remaining timber purlins to the bows ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, RESULT and the whole thing feels real solid too.

Short U bolt fed through the timber


Layed over the bow and a single bend on each free end of the U to trap the metal bow. Surprisingly tight grip with just a light crimp with pliers to flatten the loose ends against the timber.




The top five purlins on but need to source more timber of the same thin profile for the two bottom purlins at floor slab level.


The erection crew are checking out their handy work




Test fitting the inner sheet with horizontal corrugations




With outer skin over test


Not sure if to put a window on the side of this one cause I would have to plan the sizes around the window. Also there seems to be a few choices of window types and sizes to consider.
I think I might keep this one simple and do brick faced ends with the windows and doors (both ends or door one end still not sure).

A stove in the middle like this one if enough time.


Did Scottish POW camps give the prisoners electric lighting in the huts, at the door external or none at all? Also what colour is likely to have been used for the outside tin during early WW2 1940? Current Cultibraggen camp has brown tin and white wash brick ends.


All for tonight

Nige

Oooh! Looking good Nige.

Nige this reminds me of the days of building stick and tissue Guillows a/c with your attachment of the balsa runners on the metal supports.

Robert

Excellent stuff, this should be a gem.

Al

beautiful work, remember that the corrugated sheets looks like they arent long enough to span the entire roof. - it looks like theres 3 pieces used to span the semicircle. so on the outside some assemblies should be visible.

Cheers/Jan

Hi Jan

These are only dry test fits. I have a lot of the pieces already cut down to the 10 foot by 2 foot sections mentioned in the contruction notes I have that are to be used for the outside. The longer sections laid over just now were just put on to get an impression of how it will look.

I can't fit the ten foot long pieces till I source more of the timber for the bottom purlins and that will involve a rake through my hobby shed.

To make life easier for me I am going to cheet a little on the inside though and use the largest length and width I can make as I have noticed that the inner sheet sits better. I will try to make the rear wall removable to allow me to install furniture at a much later date.

Thanks for the encouragement folks

Nige