Today’s update shows some WIP on the armoured exhast covers. Dragon offer some pretty nifty covers here, but they need a little jiggery-pokery (as do Tamiya, but I have a surprise up my sleeve for the upcoming DAK build there..nod-nod, wink-wink);
• Filling the gap-lines where the lifting lugs are positioned
• Addition of casting numbers
• Texturising of the cast metal surface
Here you can see preparation of the covers – so far I have filled the filling defect around the lifting lugs (parts B4) on the exhaust coverts (parts B1) with 50/50 mix of Tipp-Ex and Cellulose Thinners (hereby referred to as ‘CT’). I keep this handy mixture in an old bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (hereby referred to at ‘TETC’), which is useful on several grounds;
1. the square bottle is less likely to spill
2. the cap has a fine brush which does not denature in the CT
3. it is always ready to use
4. this mixture fills tiny gaps & sands down really well with a fine nail file
5. because the bottle is square & does not sit on its side I find there is no residue build up in the cap thread, which can be a right pain (problem solved with a TETC bottle)
I have also prepped the areas that will take the casting numbers with four thin coats of Johnson’s Klear for better adherence when I apply the casting numbers using Archer’s decals.
I will apply the casting number using Archer Surface Details ‘Casting Symbols 7’, ref AR88007. I will use Micro Sol & Klear for this process and will also apply casting numbers on the gun mantlet and the snorkel pipe cover thingumy at the back of the engine deck. I have decided to side-step the MIG mantlet as it is smaller than the kit part (as is the bow plate – I note that this was mentioned in Gary Edmunson’s Tiger build in Osprey’s Modelling the Tiger 1, ISBN 978-1-84603-170-0). My theory is that MIG resin shrinks after casting as do most things when they cool. Food for thought; the mantlet is 1.5mm too narrow and the bow plate is 2mm too narrow. Further; the mantlet is warped & has two huge air bubbles in. Shame.
After that I will apply a ‘cast’ surface texture using a skaggy old bottle of Mr Surfacer 500 (also cut 50/50 with CT and kept in an old TETC bottle for the same reasons). I find this bottle is horrendous to open as the Mr Surfacer really glues up the bottle top thread.
NB; I notice a relatively high ‘view count’. I would be delighted to field any questions – please feel free to post up, fellas.
Further; I will update Panzers In Scale regularly, so please have a look in from time to time.