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Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
All American Tracks
ltb073
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Posted: Saturday, June 25, 2011 - 08:18 PM UTC
Joel, your Sherman looks great only thing is I don't recall Sherman tracks having any sag to them But to be sure I would check in over at the Sherman campaign tread
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2011 - 09:03 AM UTC
Thanks guys for the feedback. And yes, this being my 1st Sherman, and 2nd every piece of armor, I had no idea that the tracks were supposed to be taught. The slack came when I glued the tracks down to the return rollers. Since they're 1 piece vinyl tracks, I didn't know how to shorten them without screwing them up.

I'm a little confused as to what attachment points you're referring too? I don't believe I left out any parts.

Gary, I'll try to sign in, and just import a few pictures to start. Will the campaign ribbon be awarded now, or after the campaign is officially over?
ltb073
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Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2011 - 01:29 PM UTC
Joel looks even better when you say its only your 2nd armor piece great job
This is where I am at with my M-10, base coat is on started some of the detail painting
Photobucket
Photobucket hopefully there will be some more work done tomorrow
GaryKato
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Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2011 - 03:45 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Gary, I'll try to sign in, and just import a few pictures to start. Will the campaign ribbon be awarded now, or after the campaign is officially over?



Ribbons are awarded after the campaign ends. The button to award ribbons doesn't show up until after the campaign end date has been reached.
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, June 27, 2011 - 01:38 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Gary, I'll try to sign in, and just import a few pictures to start. Will the campaign ribbon be awarded now, or after the campaign is officially over?



Ribbons are awarded after the campaign ends. The button to award ribbons doesn't show up until after the campaign end date has been reached.



Thanks Gary for the info. Only have a year to go for my 1st ribbon.
FD3S20B
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Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 02:14 AM UTC


one of many steps...next some gloss,markings not sure how crazy iam going to get i got a bunch of ak interactive stuff in the mail.this is my second tank
ltb073
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Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 02:21 AM UTC
Craig, its looking good so far, but can you tell us what brand kit it is
FD3S20B
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Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 02:25 AM UTC
sorry its a 1/35 tamiya M26 pershing with friulmodel tracks and a rb barrel
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 02:45 AM UTC

Quoted Text

sorry its a 1/35 tamiya M26 pershing with friulmodel tracks and a rb barrel



Craig, looking real good so far. Keep the pics coming.
Nice to have another newbie in the group,
dvarettoni
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Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 02:52 AM UTC
Hay all I went back to the insertion and they are not mounting points and all the pic the I can find the pegs are not there doses any one have any links the might help if not I'm going to remove them
Thanks Dave
BigSmitty
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Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 03:04 AM UTC
Dave,

This link may help out with the M48A3. Just found it a little bit ago, and may help you out. Also has loads of secondary links on the Patton at the bottom of Page 2.

http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/M48/m48-construction.html
Bigrip74
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Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 09:00 AM UTC
Sal, do you paint your bogies before assembly and how do you keep them cleanly edged? I use a Sharpie after I have everything assembled and painted, but I am not happy with my results so far. There has to be a lazy mans way out and I am looking for it. BTW what do you think of your duckbill kit?

Bob
Beauminnick
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Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 09:50 AM UTC
Joel it's not hard to do with that kit take the track back off I know it will require a bit of repaint. Cut two links off and glue back together I just use Tamiya thin for these track and have never had a problem with them. Really just glue them nothing fancy. When doing American tanks the track should be tight. We use live track so there is no slack on a set that is properly taken care of by the crew. On a Sherman you track should be straight from the sprocket to the idler and touching the return rollers. If you are doing a tank with track skids the track is just above the skids not quite touching.
ltb073
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Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 03:29 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Sal, do you paint your bogies before assembly and how do you keep them cleanly edged? I use a Sharpie after I have everything assembled and painted, but I am not happy with my results so far. There has to be a lazy mans way out and I am looking for it. BTW what do you think of your duckbill kit?

Bob



Bob, I did the bogies after everything was all glued together with a very thin pointed brush and cheap craft store acrylic paint. This was my 1st Academy AFV kit and it was pretty nice, no major issues. Instructions were nice and clear, kit was Tamiya quality and price but better detailed. I don't like the way the decals adhered, hopefully the dull coat will seal that Here is what it looked like this afternoon I tried a new method for a dust look almost like a wet dry-brush technique PhotobucketPhotobucket
I had to mix up some new metal steel and made it to darkPhotobucketPhotobucket
also this is the 1st tank I built that has an interior which was a little trickyPhotobucket
I'm thinking maybe give this a coat of dull and call it finished what do you guys think, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Bigrip74
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Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 09:27 PM UTC
Looks nice Sal, only next time purchase some good decals. Academy decals are trash for all of their kits. thinks for the info. on the bogies I am still trying different methods to see which Iile the best.

Bob
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 - 01:14 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Joel it's not hard to do with that kit take the track back off I know it will require a bit of repaint. Cut two links off and glue back together I just use Tamiya thin for these track and have never had a problem with them. Really just glue them nothing fancy. When doing American tanks the track should be tight. We use live track so there is no slack on a set that is properly taken care of by the crew. On a Sherman you track should be straight from the sprocket to the idler and touching the return rollers. If you are doing a tank with track skids the track is just above the skids not quite touching.



Bob,

Thanks for the info. I can't believe I missed this important point,but I just assumed that all tracks sagged. Another lesson learned the hard way. I glued the tracks to the all the road wheels, drive wheels, and rollers. Not sure I can get them off without doing some damage. You can bet that I won't make that mistake again.

Right now I'm starting work on my Academy M3A1 Stuart. The tracks will be tight for sure. I've started working on correcting the numerous errors on the bogies. Just got a copy of the Zaloga's M3/M5 book, but it's not geared to the modeler like his other book on the Stuart.
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 - 01:17 AM UTC
Sal, looking good so far. One question, I noticed that on all your decals, the clear film seams to have been stained by your wash. Did you apply the decals to a gloss surface, then seal them with gloss ?
ltb073
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Posted: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 - 01:32 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Sal, looking good so far. One question, I noticed that on all your decals, the clear film seams to have been stained by your wash. Did you apply the decals to a gloss surface, then seal them with gloss ?



Joel, the decals were applied directly on to the painted surface, which was Testors Rattle Can Olive Drab. I have read and been looking for Futures as many people spray a coat of that on there builds, but I have only been able to find Pledge with Futures added. When I applied the wash most of the decals lifted and moved and I had to reposition them
ltb073
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Posted: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 - 01:35 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Right now I'm starting work on my Academy M3A1 Stuart. The tracks will be tight for sure. I've started working on correcting the numerous errors on the bogies. Just got a copy of the Zaloga's M3/M5 book, but it's not geared to the modeler like his other book on the Stuart.



Joel, I have been eyeballing that kit for the Marine Corp Campaign, let us know how it is.
Also did you check out this site for modeling US Army in World War II
http://www.usarmymodels.com/index.html
BigSmitty
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Posted: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 - 02:27 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Sal, looking good so far. One question, I noticed that on all your decals, the clear film seams to have been stained by your wash. Did you apply the decals to a gloss surface, then seal them with gloss ?



Joel, the decals were applied directly on to the painted surface, which was Testors Rattle Can Olive Drab. I have read and been looking for Futures as many people spray a coat of that on there builds, but I have only been able to find Pledge with Futures added. When I applied the wash most of the decals lifted and moved and I had to reposition them



Sal,

You found the right stuff. Future is now called "Pledge with Future Shine". It's the same stuff. Putting down decals over a flat surface will almost always result in poor adhesion to the surface and silvering of the decals, as a flat surface (under a microscope) is rough with tons of little ridges, which is where the air gets trapped, and the decals are silvered.

This is a 1/48 StuG IIIB that has been completely stripped of the old paint (bad whitewash job) and resprayed German Gray, then sprayed with a couple of light coats of Future before the decals were applied. I was purposely not cutting the carrier film close, and Tamiya's decal film is notoriously thick.



Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 - 02:52 AM UTC
Sal,

As Mat said, Pledge with Future is the exact same product, and that's what I use to prepare the surface for decaling. The difference is that I use a soft med brush to hand paint it on. It's self leveling, but will puddle is you're not careful. Dries in like 1/2 hour, then I do a 2nd coat. You can also use Testors Glosscoat, but it's a lacquer based clear.

Use the Microsale system of Set then Sol, and you're home free. If you need some pointers on decaling with their system, pm me, and I'll send you the full procedure.

Once the decals have fully dried for 24 hours, I seal them with Glosscoat, but Pledge airbrushed works just as well. Apply any washes that you want to really run, let dry, then seal in Dullcoat. Finish all your weathering, then seal with two additional coats of Testors Dullcoat.
ltb073
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Posted: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 - 04:12 AM UTC
Thanks a million for the help and Information guys I will be going out and getting some Pledge before my next decal application
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 - 04:26 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Joel, I have been eyeballing that kit for the Marine Corp Campaign, let us know how it is.
Also did you check out this site for modeling US Army in World War II
http://www.usarmymodels.com/index.html



Sal,

I'm going to do the Stuart as a 2nd model for this campaign, so I'll be posting my work here. The kit looks great. The detailed interior is pretty nice as is. I'm planning on adding some radios, wires, cables, etc, as this will also be my 1st entry in 30 plus years in a IPMS Noreastcon next year. So I'll be taking my time.
I'm doing a a early version M3A1, so only some rivets will be removed, etc.

The US Army model site is fantastic, and his kit reviews are great. Tons and tons of information.

rebelsoldier
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Posted: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 - 04:46 AM UTC
awesome pics! really shows location and placement on the interior. what did you use for painting the shells?

reb
Sudzonic
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Posted: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 - 10:00 AM UTC
Great work gang,

Well done Sal that M10 looks very good, remember to post your pic's in the gallery.