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Armor/AFV: Modern Armor
Modern armor in general.
Hosted by Darren Baker
ASLAV w/Turret Bar Armour, IRAQ 2006
jashby
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: July 01, 2009
KitMaker: 278 posts
Armorama: 248 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 10:24 PM UTC
Hi Damon,

Like Adam said the AM set from MH is nice. I picked up my set a few years ago when it first came out.
The thing is only Tankies put their wash basin on the outside. Real Cavalry soldiers are a bit more discerning in that we normal stow it inside so that it is less likely to fill up with dirt. Tankies on the other hand are dirt magnets and don't mind washing in mud .

Now for the fallout.

Cheers, John
reckymech
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: January 14, 2011
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 09:59 AM UTC
These LAV's look the business! dying to see one in paint and weathered!!!


Quoted Text

Your right Mitch,

It wasn't the Rechy Mechs it was the Spanner Nazis MAS.

The Rechy Mechs were more into rolling resistance etc.

I didn't want to single anyone out cause I know how close you card carring union members are .

In the words of SGT Oddball "I just ride them man. I don't know what makes them work"

Cheers, John



Haha yeah, MAS, we (regular RAEME) probably hate them more than anyone else.

Captin_Caveman_III
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Louisiana, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 06:30 AM UTC
WoW stunning work!
Adamskii
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South Australia, Australia
Joined: November 06, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 04:16 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Adam;
Saw this on the previous page and was wondering what it was. I would have pm'd this with you but I have no idea how to include a pic in a pm. So here goes:


So the white/opague item on the side rack just above the pioneer tools. Looks like a washing up bin that we used and I am wondering what it represents on your kit and what it came from, so I can add one to my M1A1HA from GW1. Cheers.



howdy,

thats from my blog ? its not my ASLAV.. its too neat and clean and things look sanded and no glue.. lol. Im not sure where that pic coms from but it doesnt matter. EDIT just checked and thats Sams nice looking ASLAV, his pics he posted on the blog..

The washbowl can be found in an accesory set from mouse house - kit number MA317 Complete Equipment Schedule (CES) fr Australian AFV's. Nice set includes gas bottle, toilet roll, cups, gas stove portable, empty 50 cal liners, jaffle irons, duffle bag and so on. and another very important piece of kit - the connectors for slave cables!

heres a link to item.
http://www.mheaust.com.au/MHE/Resin/MA/MA300X.htm
about half way down the page.

Hope that gets ya what your after !,,

Adamskii

The washbowl is what your talking about.
didgeboy
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Washington, United States
Joined: September 21, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 03:46 AM UTC
Adam;
Saw this on the previous page and was wondering what it was. I would have pm'd this with you but I have no idea how to include a pic in a pm. So here goes:


So the white/opague item on the side rack just above the pioneer tools. Looks like a washing up bin that we used and I am wondering what it represents on your kit and what it came from, so I can add one to my M1A1HA from GW1. Cheers.
Adamskii
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South Australia, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 02:30 AM UTC
And we breathe a sigh of relief.

SO this is the wrng place for this update but I didnt blog the PC build. But I added spall liner wrapped sandbags to the turret this evening. A sort of last minuit thing as other things didnt pan out, but i am happy with the look.

So to be clear I did two layers of sandbags around the supertructure as per reference pics in Sam Dwyers blog, and some others from the web. and then wrapped them with very thin layer of epoxy to make the liner. I used figure modelling epoxy as it has a really good work life time (and I dont have anything else on hand.. lol).

Sandbags are made the traditional way with makig a sausage, cutting the bags and shaping by hand and pressing in place, the liners were made by usinga glass jar to roll the epoxy into very very thin seets, trim them square and add to the the bags. the I scribed the seams into the edges, and the quilted criss cross pattern in the rest of the liner.

Anyways heres the pics. not real good pics but you get the idea.





one last thing, I decided to have the 50 cal box offset to the side instead of on top of the bridge. No reason other than I like it to be a little different to the others !

I have not applied the straps yet but have pressed the strap points into the epoxy. (after painting that will happen)

Now to see If I can find pics of this sort of thing happening on the fitters vehicle.

Adam
jashby
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 01:38 AM UTC
Your right Mitch,

It wasn't the Rechy Mechs it was the Spanner Nazis MAS.

The Rechy Mechs were more into rolling resistance etc.

I didn't want to single anyone out cause I know how close you card carring union members are .

In the words of SGT Oddball "I just ride them man. I don't know what makes them work"

Cheers, John
reckymech
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: January 14, 2011
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 01:17 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Nice job Adam.
Hate to be the one to bust your bubble but the tow cables are old M113 ones. Plus a couple that were "acquired" in typical Aussie fashion from some Bradleys in the AO.
We needed something that we could hook up fast to extract vehicles from IED strikes. The ASLAV only has a nylon winch extension rope and chains so the old M113 wire ropes were used. Much to the disapproval of the RAEME bigwigs. Something to do with the load rating of the rope, i.e. the M113 weighs 11.54 T against the ASLAV 15T. Towards the end of OBG(W)-4 we actually received some purpose built wire ropes for the task which were a fair bit longer than the M113 and consisted of D shakles and eyelets on the ends of the rope.
Just some back ground info for you.
Doesn't really matter because the American Tow ropes all have a very similar eye loop on them from what I have seen. They just seem to be beefed up to suit the vehicle towing weight and the wire rope thicker and longer but yours look the part.
Cheers, John




Couldn't have been recky mechs, any recky mech worth his salt should have told you to use them within their load limit, an ASLAV weighing X tonne has nothing to do with using something from an M113/Bradley etc.

As for tow rope size yes the american gear is all the same design but, when you put a tank rope next to a M113 rope the latter looks very spindly. The rope itself is about half as thick and the eyelets are about half as thin. But in 1:35 scale you would probably need a magnifying glass to tell the difference.
Adamskii
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South Australia, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 02:01 AM UTC
Welcome back ASLAV lovers.... lol

SO almost time to paint. but first I have to address the problem stuff. The biggest issue with the type 1 is I needed to fit a "boxes with no name" as it was going to be the lead vehicle in the convoy.

SO heres how it happned

Firstly my type 2 hull had the "boxes with no name" fitted and I used that as the reference and duplicated what I did there - even if its wrong at least Its going to be consistant.. ( and I did have to fix an significant problem)

The spare "Boxes with no names" sprues I had floating around in my spares box. What sort of person has this ???

The major parts fitted prior to wiring. The PC is on left side.

pre wiring front view

post wiring front view

Interestingly I didnt use the green enamelled wire supplied in the kit - I replaced it with 0.3mm solder. The kit supplied solder is 0.5mm I believe so I maintained the integrity of different thickness in cables. I hope.
The two vehicles with the "boxes with no names" attached - the lead vehicle and tail end charlie (pc)


Now the correction I had to do was the two cube shaped boxes on the sides of the hull each have an antenna. I had up till now had both of mine the same height and thickness. A close examination of reference pics reveals that the starport side one is longer and thicker, while the port side is definitely thinner and shorter! So I made the correction using 1mm rod for the starport side, and 0.5mm rod for the port side, the port side being roughly 25% shorter aswell.

A few minor gap clean ups and the type 1 hull is ready for paint!

The type 2 hull however has to be decidid IF I will fit spall liner wrapped sandbags. Probably scratchbuild them, using Sams as reference. Pretty sure this will happen - so better buy some tamiya tape - 2mm for the straps.

be back in day or two and will hopefully have these puppies under paint by the end of the weekend!

Adam

EDIT : removed technical term for the "boxes with no names" and used a generic label.
Adamskii
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Posted: Wednesday, February 09, 2011 - 01:52 AM UTC
Thanks for the heads up guys. Fortunately I have some m113 towing eyes. and guess what they are almost identical - the difference being the casting process. The length of the cable is longer but thats nothing that cant be fixed.

I absolutely must have towing cables on my vehicles. Nearly always present. i am happy to have the adapted earlier ones to suit the dio.

Thats the best part of using a forum to prepare because trying to find this information on your own is impossible. So thanks muchly for the background info!

Here are the other pictures I used to determine the size and shape of the towing eye I wanted in the first place.



And a pic I had of the new version but did not see what it was until you explained it. ( I should of seen this difference and asked earlier)


Adamskii
BLACKWATER
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Yunnan, China / 简体
Joined: August 05, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, February 09, 2011 - 12:41 AM UTC
Shock. They need strong determination to complete and superb skills.
Thanks for sharing
Cheer
Blackwater
jashby
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: July 01, 2009
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Posted: Tuesday, February 08, 2011 - 06:27 PM UTC
jashby
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Joined: July 01, 2009
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Posted: Tuesday, February 08, 2011 - 06:25 PM UTC
Nice job Adam.
Hate to be the one to bust your bubble but the tow cables are old M113 ones. Plus a couple that were "acquired" in typical Aussie fashion from some Bradleys in the AO.
We needed something that we could hook up fast to extract vehicles from IED strikes. The ASLAV only has a nylon winch extension rope and chains so the old M113 wire ropes were used. Much to the disapproval of the RAEME bigwigs. Something to do with the load rating of the rope, i.e. the M113 weighs 11.54 T against the ASLAV 15T. Towards the end of OBG(W)-4 we actually received some purpose built wire ropes for the task which were a fair bit longer than the M113 and consisted of D shakles and eyelets on the ends of the rope.
Just some back ground info for you.
Doesn't really matter because the American Tow ropes all have a very similar eye loop on them from what I have seen. They just seem to be beefed up to suit the vehicle towing weight and the wire rope thicker and longer but yours look the part.
Cheers, John

Adamskii
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South Australia, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, February 08, 2011 - 12:54 PM UTC
Tow cables.

I just got some tow cables for this project and I am very happy with them. No one to my knowledge does an ASLAV MEAO tow cable set. So need to adapt something else. Looks to me like the cable used on the ASLAV was borrowed from the Aussie Abrams. So I got a hold of some Abrams Cables and wow.. I reckon their spot on!

heres some pics of the real things.. quality is ordinary, but the best reference pics are in books and I dont want to scan them - the cable trails across the front in aready position in case of need of recovery. So it is a short cable.

attention to the shape and size of the eye at the end of the cable


These cables I got from Eureka XXL model accesories. really cheap too. two cables and 4 eyes in a pack, so 2 packets gives me 4 cables (enough for 3 vehicles and a spare to add to the fitters - stashed nicely in the windscreen basket)

And the picture from the catalogue


I have not built and installed yet ( I am certain feedback may interfere with this ) but am 99% happy they will fit.

When installed will post some pics..

Adam
Adamskii
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Posted: Saturday, January 08, 2011 - 06:46 PM UTC
A quick guide to how how I apply footman loops / tiedowns.

First ly here are the tools I need plus one length of resin tie down from ACM.


This is a length of tie down, about 4 inches long

I start with a very sharp new xatco no11 knife blade, and insert under one of the footman loops in the middle of the riser.

slowly slice under the loops to lift them away from the riser. ( you could try other methods, but this works for me)

I go along to the end - carefully

I flip it over and cut back the other end.

I nearly got all of this one off before it broke. thats ok because can use the little bits later.

Am going to demonstrate on my test vehicle. ESCI Lav command.

A drop of thick gel superglue

lower the loops from the middle into the drop and pull out leaving a tail of adhesive on the loops , dont go in too far as you might fill the loops.

Align the glued end where you want it to go on the vehicle - the unglued end is good to hold onto. The loops maintain reasonable straight edge when upright so shouldnt need tools to align at this point.

Insert a knife to prop up the unglued end.

apply a small drop of gel superglue to the riser you cut off earlier

swipe it along the underside of the loops that are in the air.

use a knife or other tool to align any twisting - a gel or slower cure glue helps rather than instant dry.

if any of the glued ones want to pop up, use the back of the knife to press them down .

trim any overhang

checking alignment

any loops that didnt stick down, I apply a tiny bit of adh to them via piece of wire or toothpick.

All done !


Let them dry, and when handling avoid letting fingers roll over them as they pluck off real easy. the ones on edges of ASLAV are very susceptable to accidental removal. Other methods to remove loops from riser are to scribe it away from loops with a steel rule and sharp knife, or scissors. I dont have much success with them. I have no success with the PE ones, I detest using them as they spring load themselves in aevery direction but the one I want!

Hope this tip helps

Adam
csmanning
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Saturday, January 08, 2011 - 01:02 PM UTC
There he is.... I knew you'd post those images sooner or later. Spot on!Cheers!!

Carmen
jasmils
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: December 23, 2003
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Posted: Saturday, January 08, 2011 - 12:42 PM UTC
For those modeller who would like to add this part of BA support to their ASLAV, here is a quick drawing I did. Please note, it is not to scale.

Cheers Jason

csmanning
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Posted: Saturday, January 08, 2011 - 08:11 AM UTC
Again... perfect timing... I have the lower hull completely done with the exception of these additional mounts. Your construction pics are bang on. The gun car I'm building has these mounts as well. Thanks for providing the size of the styrene you used (my missing piece to my puzzle). I've been sick and haven't made it out to the hobby tsore to pick up some... you've made my job easier. Cheers!!

Keep up the great work!!
Adamskii
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Posted: Saturday, January 08, 2011 - 01:51 AM UTC
Something that has been on my mind for a while, is the Bar Armour mounting brackets. There is evidence of the BA installed on the hull by the removed light and prop guards, and of course the cross bar mounts and the the turret armour. But the full skirt of BA has many more mounting points- some quite ingenious in thier use of fixed points such as clamping onto grab handles or lifting rings. One such mount can be seen in many photos of Type 1 hulls that have the BA removed from the hull, it is located just above the front wheels between the suspension structs. (see the yellow lines) The line at the rear points to one of these mounts as supplied in the conversion kit. The front arrow points to the one I want to add.


I know its not on all of them, obviously it also can get removed when uninstalling the Armour. However I really like the extra piece of evidence that helps sell to my Audience that there is more history to this vehicle. So with that in mind here is a very quick mod I did this afternoon.

Basically i copy the size and shape of the one at the rear for consistency. I use evergreen styrene square rod 1.5mm X 1.5mm to make the bar, and evergreen styrene flat strip 0.5mm x 1.5mm. I dont have any styreen strip 0.5 x 1.5mm so I cut some from a piece of 0.5 x 4.0mm (just to be confusing). The yellow line shows where I cut out a piece the size I need.

I use "plastruct" liquid cement for glueing the styrene together - works very well, super glue will work ok but sometimes styrene doesnt bond with super glue.

now I want to glue the bar/rod to the flat at 90 degrees. I glue it 1.5mm from the edge of the flat, its ok to have alot of overhang the other end as I will trim it off soon to size.

90 degrees

Trim off overhang same as other side - 1.5mm from bar. The flat should now be 5mm long with the bar mouted perpendicular at the midpoint - the same as the kit conversion size.

next centrally drill two 0.5mm holes in the flat where two bolts would go for mounting.

close up

Now to trim the bar down to fit under the hull. I measure the distance from the wall to the edge - the same distance the rear mount hangs out (level with the outer edge of the hull at its widest point)

Amazingly its exactly 10mm so I cut the square bar/rod there

I glue the mount in place (using reference pictures to find point of best alignment).

And we now have two matching brackets (repeat for both sides) as the rear ones.

the original pic again just for comparison


Something to think about . With each specialist mod I reduce the number of cars to choose from with markings, So do think about this before starting - if you want a specific vehicle, double check such a mod exists on it. If you do not have a specific vehicle in mind then I hope this gives you an option to think about.

Adam
Adamskii
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Posted: Friday, January 07, 2011 - 10:21 PM UTC
OK I said previously I should of detailed the surface Anti slip texture better - and have had offline requests to do so, so here goes !

I dont have a library of ASLAV kits available but will use my very very old LAV command kit from ESCI ! I have been using it as a mock up for the diorama as its detail is so bad it cant be seriously used as anything other that a toy or a mock up...


Anyways
compared to the PC which had the texture added after he build was completed.
also you can see the product I am using from Tamiya.

the brush I use is a piece of rubbish I got from a discount from in a pack of 10 for $2 (throw it away afterward)

put a reasonable amount on the brush (its as thick as cold custard)

Apply to the surface to be coated. I havechosen NOT to mask any areas that the paint does not go. So I will paint freehand.

the paint is applied over the surface to "wet it out"

I use the side of the brush to "blot" the texture paint across the surface - if you try to paint in a traditional sense, it will leave the most serious brushstrokes you ever seen...

the blotted surface

Now the important bit - let the paint "skin" for about 5 - 10 minuites, it may look very thin and sparse, uneven at this stage but we will even it out. Take the same brush you were using ad push it straight down on the table to make the bristles force apart - we want the opposite of a nice point.

Now we stab the surface with the brush at a right angle to the surface. This process I call "stippling". Needto be a little gentle, but the bristles make the surface more of the texture we want. left side in the pic has has been stippled, the right side is only blotted.

stippling both sides.. this process can be repeated over a few times to get it right. The paint as tiny ceramic beads it it that feel like fine sand grit, but we help expose that by this process.

the surface textured with anti slip! While it is still wet, I push a 1mm rod around the bits that could of been masked, where the texture should not be. Check your references. The paint once dry can be "peeled" off as it has a skin like property. It doesnt dry 'hard" like an enamel and I have found that you can easily tidy up over paint edges with a sharp knife and a steady hand

A very rough job but you get the idea !

and a final comparison

Hope this helps anyone ese wanting to try this very simple method!

Adam

Adamskii
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Posted: Friday, January 07, 2011 - 08:37 PM UTC
As John said - almost everything can be found at Mouse House. just need to buy the donor kits for conversion.

I would reccomend buying the bulged wheels instead of just the hubs - the price is well worth it. I have tried to assemble the wheels and as per kit instruction with the hubs and think its far easier with the full resin wheel.

The reference book Australian Military Equipment Profiles No.4 ASLAV is a great start to this FOV (family of Vehicles), and I thoroughly recommend it - mine currently is almost in pieces I have thumbed it so much - testiment to the value of the many colour photos and information!

Lastly there are several very very good threads on this website and others that are packed with information on ASLAV FOV, And I suggest this one as a primary source :

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=120708&page=19#1411438

thanks

Adam
Austmouse
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Australian Capital Territory, Australia
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Posted: Friday, January 07, 2011 - 07:22 PM UTC

Quoted Text

What an awesome collection!!!!!! Where did you get the conversions and info to finish them. Dun mind starting collecting them for myself. Real fatastic work.
Regards,
Desmond



Desmond
Try www.mheaust.com.au/MHE/catalogue.htm

Mouse house sells all the bits you need made by Mouse Armour or Arms Corps Models.

Reference material - try our book Military Briefs No.4 ASLAV.

John M
Adamskii
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Posted: Friday, January 07, 2011 - 05:45 PM UTC
Was looking for what paint I used on my first conversion - almost 8 years ago now I built an ASLAV conversion from the old revell kit. I used mostly Defence Models and Graphics conversion set elements and a tonne of scratchbuilding.
It was A humbrol paint , but not sure which one.

Was fun to look at this model I build so long ago, and how rough some of the elements are, but not bad considering the total lack of reference! But the paint job wasnt bad! The wheels are funny - really really bad knock off's I think!

I think I have come a long way since then !

check it out
http://www.track-link.net/gallery/2394

Adam
kohtbon007
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Posted: Friday, January 07, 2011 - 04:42 PM UTC
What an awesome collection!!!!!! Where did you get the conversions and info to finish them. Dun mind starting collecting them for myself. Real fatastic work.
Regards,
Desmond
Adamskii
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Posted: Friday, January 07, 2011 - 11:40 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Man how do you do it, seriously, that is fast building, and good. I have the Lav PC and the fitter and when ever I open the boxs I get a shiver down my spine with all that resin, brrrrrrrrrrrr.



LOL, I really enjoyed the PC and Fitters build. I wish I had blogged the PC, but it would of been a mess. Essentially once the suspensions done, the top half is just a big box with details glued to it. Its amazing how fast you go through those resin risers. Seriously of all the time spent building , about 1/3 rd was spent blogging the build. Having to reduce photo file sizes edit each pic to crop for best shape and some annotations took alot longer than I thought - and its on a laptop with no mouse!

In hindight I should of done a photo set showing how I glue footman loops on, and how I apply the antislip. maybe one or two other things could of had better sequence pics. But I hope it offers some assistance!

Regards
Adam