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Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Gaz AAA
lespauljames
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 - 11:25 AM GMT+7
Fellas, another update.

A warning, the cargo sub assembly i had lots of fit issues joining this to the chassis. Perhaps my chassis was not staight? I had to add 1-2mm height to the join areas so the wheels cleared the frame, ( they wouldnt fit)


and on its base...

lespauljames
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Posted: Saturday, March 10, 2012 - 02:32 PM GMT+7
Hey Guys, I Think i have just the green to use...

So a small update..



cargo and Mp


and the open bonnet

Big-John
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Posted: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 - 08:25 PM GMT+7
The picture posted above of the Ford ModelAA engine is the corect color for Model A and AA engines built by ford, Not sure what color GAZ would have painted them.

I'd say you wouldn't go wrong with that dark green color.

Just my humble opion.
Spiderfrommars
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Milano, Italy
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Posted: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 - 08:38 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Can the bonnet (hood) be left open to show the engine Bay and engine?


Yes, the cooling louvers on the side of the "bonnet" are on both sides, so you can position the hood open.



...The vents are opened and the thickness of the bonnet is incredibly thin. You can represent the locks of the bonnet opened or closed, you have alternative parts to do it A great kit indeed

(I have the MM kit in my stash)
bill_c
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MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
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New Jersey, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 - 07:29 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Can the bonnet (hood) be left open to show the engine Bay and engine?


Yes, the cooling louvers on the side of the "bonnet" are on both sides, so you can position the hood open.
MrRoo
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 - 04:43 PM GMT+7
This one will sit in my stash for a while but I am amazed at the detail of the kit shown in your photos. Can the bonnet (hood) be left open to show the engine Bay and engine? Be good to have it up with a soldier or mechanic 'tinkering'
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 - 02:52 PM GMT+7
Well James, I think that the most likely color would be khaki drab. Engines were painted to avoid corrosion (so they couldn't be metallic), they were probably painted with the same color of the body (4bo green which is close to Olive drab). If you're going to depict a captured exemplar which German have re-painted in panzer gray, you should leave the engine,the hinner parts of the engine bay, the interiors and the frame painted in green



Great job so far!

cheers
lespauljames
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Posted: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 - 02:44 PM GMT+7
Thanks Guys!
Mauro, awesome images, Although slightly contradictory when it comes to engine colour.?.. Im probaly going to avoid metallics if i can help it, so green or grey?..
Jeremy Good tip, Didnt think of it that way!Ill keep my eyes open
Cliff, try to relax when assembling the break mechanism lines and the leafspring assemblies. I swore a LOT!
I have started painting on some green tonight. Although thats not in the pictures yet. I'm going to paint and weather the lower half, then the top half.



MrRoo
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Posted: Monday, February 27, 2012 - 12:50 AM GMT+7
I have just ordered mine from Lucky Models and notice they are taking forward orders for another one coming out in March from Miniart with the twin spares mounted on either side front mudguard
vonHengest
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 08:35 PM GMT+7
This is great James, I can't wait for these things to reach my part of the States

If you are looking for more references for the engine, don't forget that these trucks were the Ford AA trucks built under license, and they use the same flathead 4-cylinder engine. You will most likely have an easier time finding reference photos for the Ford engines than the Russian GAZ ones.
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 06:35 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

I believe T-70s and Su-76Ms used these engines too.



according to this site Gaz AAA trucks had GAZ MM and Gaz AA engines

Gaz AA engine


























http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=399 (Gaz AAA walkaround)

Also the T-38 had gaz AA engine
http://www.nortfort.ru/np/foto_t3811_e.html

Anyway GAZ AA engine is a Ford AA motor, built by GAZ:



http://www.old-ford-trucks.com/1929-ford-model-aa-truck-engine.html

http://hotrodrepair.com/31AA/1931Ford_AA.htm

According to the references, Su-76 had two Gaz 203 engines



http://serkoff.narod.ru/photoalbum146.html



cheers
lukiftian
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 05:47 PM GMT+7
I believe T-70s and Su-76Ms used these engines too.
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 04:43 PM GMT+7
You're welcome James. Very nice strart so far

Also your build log is useful for me because i have lots of Miniart wheels to assemble

If I'm not wrong Gaz AAA engine was the same of all the gaz trucks (and Also Ba armoured cars had the same engine and the same frame). So if I find some othe references 8I'm sure I'll be able to do it...) i'll be glad to give you the links

Cheers
Big-John
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Ohio, United States
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 04:25 PM GMT+7
Hi James,

I'm following along, Nice build so far. I'm really digging this kit.
lespauljames
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 04:20 PM GMT+7

First off, study the instructions..

C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6 C7
The Tread pattern goes |Edge|_Gap_Bump|_Gap_Ridge|_Ridge|_Ridge_Gap|_Bump_Gap_|Edge|
It is very important to remember this pattern.
Sand each piece to make sure the ejector marks are flat, otherwise your Tyre will be ruined.

Place your parts in order. DO NOT MUDDLE THEM UP.

Place glue only on the inside of the ring. you dont want glue seeping onto the tread pattern.

Carefully squeeze together to ensure a tight fit.

Be careful whilst removing the next end connectors (Part C3)

Lightly sand with 1000 Grit then brush off the dust


Part 2
Lay parts out and assemble as previously done, watch out for the Tread pattern and make sure you assemble it correctly.

You will end up with two parts, One one slice thicker than the other.
Remove and clean up your selected rim.

place on the thicker piece to the back.

Add the front piece, making sure to line up with the holes..

Press together.

You can leave them unstuck for ease of painting later on...
lespauljames
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 12:12 PM GMT+7
The Chassis goes together with a little patience, and a few small parts snapping. although the detail is fantastic, the woodgrain, although probably overscale looks great to me.



be careful to assemble it straight! otherwise you will have problems.

I did my best.


and an axle..


On the X assemblies, bend them inwards a little before gluing, otherwise they will not connect.
lespauljames
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 09:52 AM GMT+7
Cheers Mauro, Highly useful.
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2012 - 12:31 PM GMT+7
http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=399

http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=1574




lespauljames
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2012 - 11:57 AM GMT+7
Got up to stage 3. No problems, some of the locations points are TINY.. then again some of the parts are tiny..
So far the engine consists of 20 parts, with fantastic detail. Did they ever run these trucks with the hatch open??


anybody got any photos of these engines either in colour or in their natural environment?

Engine walkaround if amyones interested.
http://www.cardarmy.ru/fotos/gazaa-engine.htm
lespauljames
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2012 - 07:33 AM GMT+7
First 1/35 vheicle in a long time, Miniarts Gaz AAA, These newer kits are starting to match the complexity of some of the DML offerings, with fantastic detail and per hour value, This kit was 25. For a truck with a small fret of PE, and the feldgendarmarie set included this is a very attractive package.