Since there is interest, here goes. This first entry will be long since I will try and catch everyone up to where I am now.

As stated previously, the kits used are the Tamiya M551 and the Academy M551 (Vietnam Version.) I am also using the Eduard Etched Brass set for the Academy M551. I planned the build to depict a M551A1 Sheridan from the mid ‘70s.







I researched the two kits and found that neither was a good representation of the Sheridan, with glaring inaccuracies in both. So I decided to combine the kits in an attempt to get a closer representation.
After going down to Ft. Benning and crawling on the Armor and Cavalry Museums two Sheridans (and taking a bunch of reference pics) I embarked on my build.

The Academy hull is better than the Tamiya hull, so I decided to work with it. The first thing that needed to be corrected was the fact that the driver’s hatch on the Academy model is out of proportion. So I removed it and replaced it with the Tamiya driver’s hatch which is more to scale. This required me to cut out both hatches and put the Tamiya one in the Academy upper hull.



Other changes to the front upper hull were: (these can be seen in the above picture)

(1) Replace the lifting eyes with modified ones from a Academy M113A1 (parts box). Pieces of plastic stock were added to the bottom of the eyes, to simulate the thicker base seen on the Sheridan lifting eyes.
(2) Added a correct representation of the crew heater exhaust behind the right headlight. This was made from plastic strip and plastic tube.
(3) Added the front Bilge Pump cover behind the left headlight. I made it by sanding down a piece of plastic stock.
(4) Added more rivets around the front glacis, since the actual vehicle has tons (about two thirds more than the model)
(5) Shaped the swim vane latches to better represent the type on the real vehicles and add the wing nut hold downs.
(6) Added a piano hinge to the top of the swim vane as on the actual vehicle. This came from a PE set for a halftrack that I had in the parts box.

(7) I added the correctly shaped bullet deflector detail to the top of the Driver’s hatch. This was fabricated from triangled stock that I heated and formed into the correct shape. I had to sand down the hatch cover so the deflector would fit correctly.



On the right side of the hull I moved the fire extinguisher pull handle to the correct location and filled in the open seam where the two side plates meet.



On the rear, I made the following changes:

(1) Removed the two rear Bilge Pump outlets and replaced them with new ones that are closer to the correct size and shape for the A1 version.
(2) Removed and replaced the rear lifting eyes. Same technique as for the front above.
(3) Replaced the swim shroud tie downs with the ones from the Eduard set. I also added the two side tie downs that are on the actual vehicle. These came from spare PE parts.
(4) I thinned down the external phone cover (around the right tail light). It is recessed on the actual vehicle, but short of cutting out a hole, this seemed like the best choice.
(5) Thinned the cover around the left tail light.
(6) Added bolt heads and lift handle in the proper locations.
(7) Added L-shaped brackets on both sides as seen on the real vehicle.



On the left side I filled in the seam between the two panels.



On the engine deck, I did the following:

(1) The two rear engine access doors are touching on the model, and there should be space between them. In that space should be lifting handles and the latching system. I sanded down this area and added the handles and locking device. Grill covers from the Eduard set were added to the appropriate areas.



(2) The gas filler caps are molded backwards, so I cut them off and replaced them with two from the parts box.
(3) Added the Eduard exhaust cover.



Rivets were removed from the entire upper hull where they don’t exist on the real vehicle. Four bolt heads were added in the proper locations.





On the lower front hull, I modified the idler wheel arms to better represent the correct shape and mounting on the real vehicle. This was done by sanding to the correct shape and adding bolt heads. Then adding Squadron White putty and sanding to the proper shape.
The idler wheel tension adjuster is located in the wrong place. I changed its location and fabricated mounting points on the hull and idler arm.



On the lower hull sides, I added covers to the side cutouts in the hull. These are on the real vehicle, but were omitted from the model. I also added the side “Add-on” anti-mine blast armor that appears on the A1 version. This was done with sheet stock and several cuss words.



The rear Tow Pintle mount was incorrectly shaped, so I scratch built a correct one.





Inside the Driver’s hatch, I added periscopes and the washer fluid reservoir. The periscopes were from the parts box and the reservoir was fashioned from a piece of scrap sprue.



Next up will be mounting the front and rear road wheel shock absorbers in their correct locations. Then I will start on the turret.

Dave

The add-on armor was not on the M551 version, only the M551A1 version. This was part of the upgrades done due to experience in Vietnam. Many of the upgrades done in the A1 variant, were not that noticable unless you were able to see two tanks next to each other. The final variant the M551A1 TTS had even more modifications/improvements.

Also as Gary stated, the Sheridan was very much "Field" modified by crews and units during the Vietnam years.

I am just building a standard M551A1 that might have been used by the 82nd ABN or the Cav units in Germany during the late 70's.

To get a better understanding of all of the modifications, etc., I suggest that the following references be consulted.

(1) SHERIDAN by R.P. Hunnicutt
(2) M551 Sheridan in Action by David Doyle
(3) M551 Sheridan by Steve Zaloga
(4) Sheridan Walkaround CD by Chris "Toadman" Hughes

These are all great references.

Also there are several Articles/Reviews of the Academy, Tamiya and Jaguar models on the net.

Dave

Roy,

I obviously can't fix all of the inaccuracies But I will fix what I can. My only regret is that most people looking at the finished model will not notice the differences.

I however will know and that's what counts

I hope to get a couple of good hours in tonight.

Dave

I love this vehicle and I think you are crazy.

Tell you gonna use the fruil tracks ????

First of all, excellent build so far sir. Secondly as I have built one of the academy monstrosities and choose fruil tracks, let me pass on this bit of advice. Use a malleable wire as the track runs will begin to curve to one wide. I used brass wire and found that attempting to straighten I only deformed the track runs. If I had used a more easily bent wire, the wire would have bent instead. Also, your front mud flaps might get in the way.of your track and idler wheel. The fruil is, I think, a Tad thicker and makes the track run into the flap. Good luck sir. Watching in earnest.