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Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Looking for ideas for what to 3D Print
AmTrac1833
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 06:30 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I'm not sure how well I could pull off RAM. Parts I can likely do. I also worked on those hatches and I believe I have them finished.





Well if anyone could provide me with the basic dimensions of the interior they want (or dimensions to fit the kit they want) and a few photos I can figure out the rest and find more photos to go off of.



This is working out well; it is shortening my anticipated build times thanks to your efforts. I have placed my orders for the 1/48 & 1/72 life raft containers. Will you be adding the LVTP7 hatches? I plan to purchase two or three sets of those too.

Also in my stash is another involved project that would benefit from 3D printed parts. This is a 1/35 project and where I didn’t have foresight to measure out everything on the 50’ work boat I went fore to aft with tape measure and ruler on the LVTA5 with intent to eventually build one.
Can the support roller mounts be duplicated with 3D printing or are they too small/delicate to do in 1/35? The wheels are not needed as they were (can be) sourced from another kit. I also need the driver’s cupola and raised area added to turret. I am fairly certain I have more than enough images along with the measurements to churn out an entire conversion kit if it can be done with 3D printing and based on the Italeri 1/35 LVTA4 kit.

LVTA5 Modified


Fwd return roller


Aft return roller






MikeyBugs95
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 02:06 PM UTC
Thanks.
jasmils
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 01:59 PM UTC
RAFT http://anvic3.com/cdci/pdf/RAFT-WS-DS-v1.pdf
MikeyBugs95
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 12:26 PM UTC
An update on the AN/VIC-3 set: I've nearly finished the set. All I have left to do is 4 speakers and a little checking and tweaking and it can finally go up on the shop. Below the pictures will be a list of what is and will be included:

Top side:


Bottom:


The empty space in the back of the sheets will be taken up by 2 loudspeakers per side.

On top we have:

MCS - Master Control Station (also included on opposite side)


Front 4: FFCS - Full Function Crew Station


MOS - Monitor Only Station


Foreground: RIT - Radio Interface Terminal
Back: RRU - Radio Rebroadcast Unit

Now on the opposite side we have:

Front 2: FFCS/T - Full Function Crew Station Telephone


FFCS/D - Full Function Crew Station Data


Center: MOS2 - Dual Monitor Only Station


Foreground: RIT/D
Behind: ITS/R - Infantry Telephone Station

I wanted to include a Remote Access Field Telephone (RAFT) connection but I can't find any dimensions for it.
MikeyBugs95
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 09:48 AM UTC
OK Daniel, I got to editing the model and removed the sight cover. I also added those bolts.


MikeyBugs95
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 08:51 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

do you have friends who create 3d models? Alot of gamers pick up that 3d modeling end of things. Creating MODS for games. ie- The Game Operation Flashpoint was a game with modern armor. Alot of guys created a whole arsenal of WW2 tanks in 3d for the game. Thats where I would start asking for help.These guys know the 3d software like the back of their hand.



A lot of those models aren't compatible, with 3D printing. I just went through that exercise with a guy I'm making 1/18 scale parts for. (Now I'm NOT saying all models, just the ones I was getting sent to me) Most of them were simply a "box" with graphics on all sides.



Actually some some could be converted into a CAD format (STL, STEP, DWG, IPT, etc.). In one game I used to play *cough* simcity *cough*, a lot of the mod-makers who made various buildings and such used a program called GMAX. As the name suggests it's based off of Autodesk's 3DS Max program and could design in CAD formats. But of course, those mods really are boxes with textures laid over them (albeit more complex boxes but basically boxes). So it is possible to take a game mod and convert it into a 3D printable CAD format. Just not likely in war games.
MikeyBugs95
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 05:16 AM UTC
If you can get me pictures of the parts, I can probably do a model of it.
PanzerLehr
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 04:30 AM UTC
Hello,

What about the exhaust silencers for the Swedish Leopard 2's?
MikeyBugs95
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Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2016 - 04:00 AM UTC
I guess specialization does help.

Would anyone be interested in a M103-T110E4 for Dragon's M103A1 kit? I know the T110 series was not built upon the M103 hull and chassis but I don't see a correct T110 hull coming anytime soon. I have a future project in mind of designing the upper hull case mate and engine deck of the T110E4 experimental heavy tank (known as the T110E3 tank destroyer in WOT). If I do go ahead with this project I would need some measurements from people who have the M103A1 kit. I've contacted Nicholas Moran (The Chieftain) about information he may have concerning the tank and if I might be able to get dimension from the game's model. Right now I'm wondering if anyone would be interested in such a kit.
jasmils
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Posted: Saturday, March 12, 2016 - 12:52 PM UTC
When I was thinking of doing the up as a separate kit, I had a long hard look at who was using it and on what vehicle. Then decided against it. Too many kits to build for the instructions. So they will only be used for my Bushmaster and Australian M113 kit.
MikeyBugs95
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Posted: Saturday, March 12, 2016 - 11:46 AM UTC
Hmm a little friendly competition going I guess, eh? For me the hardest part was just getting enough information and resources to just start and then actually getting the basic shape down. After that all I had to do was build one of the knobs/connectors or a small group of them and then propagate them correctly. Today I actually finished the MCS, 4 FFCS', RITs and MOS'. I have just the speakers to do.
jasmils
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Posted: Saturday, March 12, 2016 - 11:33 AM UTC
G'day Mike,
I have been working on this for quite a while now. The VIC 3 was the easy part. But the rest of the harness will be the Australian Raven radio system.
I didn't actually do the CAD, I payed a bloke to do it and it's now being quoted for printing.
I was going to release the VIC 3 as a separate set, but I'm not sure about that now.
Cheers Jason
MikeyBugs95
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Posted: Friday, March 11, 2016 - 11:44 PM UTC
When did you start on yours? It also looks like yours has everything one would need for a VIC-3. I'm going to be doing a VIC-3 and -5 set with just the MCS, 2 FFCS', RIT, MOS and speaker. But I presume you're going to be putting it up on your website? What program are you using by the way?
jasmils
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Posted: Friday, March 11, 2016 - 05:12 PM UTC
You're going to hate me.
Removed by original poster on 03/12/16 - 12:11:27 (GMT).
MikeyBugs95
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Posted: Friday, March 11, 2016 - 01:19 PM UTC
I started working on the AN/VIC-3 radios today. I plan on making it as a set of AN/VIC-3 and -5 including the MCS, 2 FFCS, RIT, MOS and a loudspeaker. That being said, it's taking me much longer to do this model than others. I've been working the VIC-3 MCS for a for at least 5 hours now and I'm barely finished. That's including time spent on research and pulling patches of my hair out over some areas though. Here's where I am so far. Almost finished... But not quite.



Opinions? Corrections?

Edit: I just realized that about half of the wings on the knobs were missing. This was fixed.
MikeyBugs95
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Posted: Friday, March 11, 2016 - 03:10 AM UTC
Another problem that might arise with the DD screen is that the screen itself might be very unrealistic when finished. There might be a huge amount of the mold lines present because of the molding process and the angles present in the part.
matt
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Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2016 - 11:01 PM UTC

Quoted Text

In the future when your programs increase (?) in power...A raised screen in 1/35 for a Duplex Drive Sherman. Please



The material volume alone would make it drastically cost prohibitive.
matt
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Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2016 - 10:58 PM UTC

Quoted Text

do you have friends who create 3d models? Alot of gamers pick up that 3d modeling end of things. Creating MODS for games. ie- The Game Operation Flashpoint was a game with modern armor. Alot of guys created a whole arsenal of WW2 tanks in 3d for the game. Thats where I would start asking for help.These guys know the 3d software like the back of their hand.



A lot of those models aren't compatible, with 3D printing. I just went through that exercise with a guy I'm making 1/18 scale parts for. (Now I'm NOT saying all models, just the ones I was getting sent to me) Most of them were simply a "box" with graphics on all sides.
Removed by original poster on 03/11/16 - 17:58:07 (GMT).
shermaholic-king
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Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2016 - 10:30 PM UTC
In the future when your programs increase (?) in power...A raised screen in 1/35 for a Duplex Drive Sherman. Please
Major_Steuben
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Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2016 - 09:53 PM UTC
I have model project in the works and I am looking for a 1/16 scale M-14 rifle (with or without scope, Vietnam era, 1/16 .30 caliber (7.62 NATO) linked ammunition belts (10 round sections?), US M-1 helmet liners (Vietnam era),

These items should be fairly easy, would they not.

Craig
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Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2016 - 09:26 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I think I just found a new project: M103A2/M88 drive sprockets.



Maybe M1 Abrams and M48/M60 drive sprockets with the lightening holes in them.
HDSC2D
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Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2016 - 08:14 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Maybe M60 tank wheels? Over the years, I have read a whole lot of complaints about how model companies have not gotten them correctly.


I did some wheels for the DML M48, M103 and AFV Club M88. Unfortunately road wheels eat up a lot of volume in material, making them costly to do in 3D printing.
https://www.click2detail.com/store/p180/1%3A35_M103_Wheel_Set.html
AmTrac1833
#431
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Posted: Thursday, March 10, 2016 - 07:23 PM UTC
I like that, it is definitely a better option than what I have in the kit. However the Night Vision Device mount should be reversed, it should be slightly depressed from the surface of the hatch instead of raised. I dug through my photos (album & digital) and it proved challenging to find images of the top of the driver’s hatch. Nearly all pictures were taken when the hatches were open. I scanned the one photo I could find that I thought provided the best view of the NVD mount. I used the kit part for measurement which looks slightly off from the photo but is probably best that can be done with kit molds.


Here is the power pack of an AAV7. The first two images are of the pre-RAM engine and last photo is of the RAM/RS engine. Primary visible differences are the valve covers, exhaust manifolds and addition of pre-coolers on the RAM engine. I wouldn’t bother with the hoses and wiring as that could be better replicated with wire. This is what I have the piles of mechanical drawings for along with more photographs if you wish to tackle it.