Armor/AFV: Modern - USA
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Black Label T54E1 - Dragon gets it wrong
JPTRR
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RAILROAD MODELING
#051
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Posted: Tuesday, March 07, 2017 - 10:07 PM UTC
That is pathetic.
tanknick22
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Posted: Tuesday, March 07, 2017 - 11:31 PM UTC
I was thinking about building the M103 and T54E1 but after reading about all the issues no thanks I will pass i think im done with dragon it seems all the know how to make is german armor or crap
Cantstopbuyingkits
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Posted: Tuesday, March 07, 2017 - 11:40 PM UTC

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Yes Chris,

your statement is absolutely correct!

I'll never buy the Dragon Black label yunk again!

Dragon should call it the "Black [auto-censored]"; - that's more appropriate!

The M60 plain is plagued by mistakes:

1. main gun barrel too long and too thin!
2, M83 barrel too long!
3. M19 cupola is a piece of [auto-censored]; - replaced it with the Legend one's!
5. The hatches are "liberated" of any interrior details!
6. Even the sprocket is void it's mud holes!!!

AFV Club has no problems in getting the details right with their M60 models! No missing mud holes or other crap!

Save your money and spare you any problems with the "Black [auto-censored]" Dragon models!


But... M60 kit is not Black Label... It's a "SmartKit".



It is part of their Modern Armor series [which seems to have turned into to their favored name when they want want to hide the Black Labelness of a kit]. All armor they release is supposed to be "smart" as long ago as I can remember.
MikeyBugs95
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Posted: Tuesday, March 07, 2017 - 11:41 PM UTC
I'm glad I got the M103 kit at the very price it should've been sold at: free. That's the only price I'll pay for this kit now as well.
trakpin
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Posted: Wednesday, March 08, 2017 - 03:10 AM UTC
so, THIS is why I havn't built up any dragon kits for the last few yrs.
Bravo1102
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Posted: Wednesday, March 08, 2017 - 04:06 AM UTC
It is amazing that on the one hand they can hit it out of the park with something like their Tiger I or the new Sturmgeschutz III C but at the same time do kits at the complete opposite end of the spectrum.

I have a feeling they prioritize certain pieces and give them the big development budgets and loose deadlines and at the other end is something like this where the team is given a photocopy of the Hunnicutt book and are told to change an existing tool but only as much as $3.85 will get you... and have it on my desk tomorrow...
BootsDMS
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Posted: Thursday, March 16, 2017 - 05:48 AM UTC

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Chris in step 10 it lists the turret "cradle" as part B4, but in step 13 it lists the turret cradle BOTTOM as part B4. Could you please show a photo of those two parts, especially the bottom part (the part that sits in the hull) showing them side by side, (from above) will give an idea of how much material can be removed to try and fix the shape issue.















I'm planning to cut along the red line shown below to make the bottom part "B4" round to more or less match to circle on the tank chassis.




Chris,

If you can fix (any of) this please let us know; keep up the good work.

Regards,

Brian
Removed by original poster on 03/17/17 - 04:08:11 (GMT).
thedoog
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 07:41 AM UTC
I'm bashing the hell out of one over at the Finescale site if anyone's interested....

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/3/t/174638.aspx



27-1025
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 09:40 AM UTC
Your step by step explanation of the corrections over on FSM is much appreciated. Silk purse from a sows ear. Really looks good.
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 04:20 PM UTC

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Your step by step explanation of the corrections over on FSM is much appreciated.



Yes, but Aye Carumba! The actual modeling in that thread takes up about half a page out of the four. You have to wonder about these guys with these massive signature graphics . . . Is what you are saying really so important or meaningful that it must be seen by everyone, every time you post? And what does it say when your boilerplate cuteness is ten times the length of what you are deliberately writing?

KL
BootsDMS
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 05:29 PM UTC

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I'm bashing the hell out of one over at the Finescale site if anyone's interested....

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/3/t/174638.aspx






Karl,

Thanks; that's a very useful article; thanks for your efforts. I may now give this model a go myself.

Brian
thedoog
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 05:37 PM UTC

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Your step by step explanation of the corrections over on FSM is much appreciated.



Yes, but Aye Carumba! The actual modeling in that thread takes up about half a page out of the four. You have to wonder about these guys with these massive signature graphics . . . Is what you are saying really so important or meaningful that it must be seen by everyone, every time you post? And what does it say when your boilerplate cuteness is ten times the length of what you are deliberately writing?

KL

Hmmm, well, I dunno, Kurt--why don't YOU try to tell us "what it says"? Apparently you've got some concept of how a thread should proceed within some arbitrary parameters known only to you? You know, all the actual "modeling" in that thread is succinctly contained within my various photo-heavy posts, and anyone with half a brain can just scroll through and find what they need to know. A anyone but Kurt, apparently?
Your worthless comment is a good example of why I spend most of my time over at Finescale--I've really grown to love the sense of community and friendly banter over there, peppered with some genuinely modelers and knowledgeable people who are not afraid to weigh in and have their "boilerplate cuteness" (whatever the hell THAT means) picked apart by self-appointed critics who have nothing to offer to the discussion or thread. You can post over there and be guaranteed that you're going to get actual replies, conversation, friendly banter, and real critique and advice. Not so much here, in my experience. Tell ya what, buddy---you just stay right here and wait for this thread's original poster to get back with some progress, ok? That would be greaaaaaat.

Ultimately, your comment tells us more about YOU than anything.
thedoog
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 05:38 PM UTC

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I'm bashing the hell out of one over at the Finescale site if anyone's interested....

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/3/t/174638.aspx






Karl,

Thanks; that's a very useful article; thanks for your efforts. I may now give this model a go myself.

Brian

Glad you could get something from it. I wish you luck with your own if you attempt it!
thedoog
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 05:39 PM UTC

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Your step by step explanation of the corrections over on FSM is much appreciated. Silk purse from a sows ear. Really looks good.

Much appreciated, Chris; thank you sir!
phantom8747
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 05:48 PM UTC
Does Ddragon ever base any of their new new US armor on any actual tanks.or just guess their way thru the kits. So many errors in the Black Plague line.
thedoog
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 06:31 PM UTC

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Does Ddragon ever base any of their new new US armor on any actual tanks.or just guess their way thru the kits. So many errors in the Black Plague line.

I believe that what they did in this case was to simply (cheaply) decide to use the already-existing M48 hull that they had in production and use that turret ring to graft a rough estimation of this turret to it and sell it that way. Gotta believe that the "WoT" crowd who play that game might not be that schooled on details and that their standards for a down-to-the-nuts accurate tank weren't that high----and this was really the target market for this, and some of the other big American tanks which make an appearance in that game.
Bravo1102
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 07:57 PM UTC
The thing to do with this kit is to throw away away the T54 turret and use the hull to make an early production M48 slick. Dragon got the early oblong driver's hatch and fenders. If only they had put in an M48 turret with the low cupola.

And if you do that you won't even have to drill out the drive sprockets. I looked at the half dozen M48 and M48A1 at Fort Knox and another at Sea Girt NJ plus tons of period photos. Early M48s like M26, M46 and M47 did not have the mud release holes. In fact if you look closely at M48A5 (as I did when cleaning out the mud) you could see where they were very roughly drilled out on some tanks. I even served on one that was modified from one of the pre-production M48 built from mild steel and then re-built as an M48A5 for training only.

So if building the actual T56 prototype as built or a gasser M48 early on there may be no mud chute holes.
thedoog
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 08:04 PM UTC

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The thing to do with this kit is to throw away away the T54 turret and use the hull to make an early production M48 slick. Dragon got the early oblong driver's hatch and fenders. If only they had put in an M48 turret with the low cupola.


Hmm, I would argue that that's "the thing to do" with this kit. It's certainly an option...but it doesn't invalidate the kit itself. It can be built--with a little work. And it certainly offers an important and very visually-interesting model of an experimental design which had its place in the USA's tank development history. Some people see the word "model" as purely a noun; I mean no condescension when I say that I consider that word a verb as well. I think--and I hope that you agree--that I've shown that you can make a decent representation of the T54E1 here if you are willing to put in a little bit of work to it. Certainly not any more work than, for instance, using a full set of Griffon PE or completing a full interior on any other kit when you come right down to the time and effort involved?

I believe that Dragon will undoubtedly come out with an early M48, using these components. Just a matter of time, really...
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 10:04 PM UTC

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Your step by step explanation of the corrections over on FSM is much appreciated.



Yes, but Aye Carumba! The actual modeling in that thread takes up about half a page out of the four. You have to wonder about these guys with these massive signature graphics . . . Is what you are saying really so important or meaningful that it must be seen by everyone, every time you post? And what does it say when your boilerplate cuteness is ten times the length of what you are deliberately writing?

KL



Hmmm, well, I dunno, Kurt--why don't YOU try to tell us "what it says"?




Well, first off Karl, your posts, along with a very few others, are the ones providing the modeling content in that thread, so I wasn't talking about you.

I can't provide a full analysis of those people, but using those idiotic signature graphics, GIFs, and memes seems to indicate an author who really has no respect for the readers or the media. Apparently he can't count on the content of his actual writing to make his posts stand out, so he's got to resort to some splashy, off-topic, gimmick. Really now, do they think that repeating the same joke or cutesy quip for the 389th time makes it better? How about posting something relevant, even if it is just "I really like how you did the mud drips on the hull" or giving your view of why you think a company's recent releases are good for the hobby. How about those condolence posts when someone dies that include a wacky image occupying more space on the screen than the writer's remembrances of the dead guy? That's something his widow will want to print out and put in the family bible with her husband's obituary.

Signature crap lets you say something automatically without any thought. Is that ever a good idea?


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Apparently you've got some concept of how a thread should proceed within some arbitrary parameters known only to you?



They ought to be known to anyone who has an interest in receiving or giving information effectively.


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You know, all the actual "modeling" in that thread is succinctly contained within my various photo-heavy posts, and anyone with half a brain can just scroll through and find what they need to know. A anyone but Kurt, apparently?



As I said, your posts are great. The problem is that they are spaced out like a magazine article that has one column of text every five pages through 100 pages of ads. I can follow that quite easily, but like most readers unless I'm deeply interested in the subject, I just won't bother.


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Your worthless comment is a good example of why I spend most of my time over at Finescale--I've really grown to love the sense of community and friendly banter over there, peppered with some genuinely modelers and knowledgeable people who are not afraid to weigh in and have their "boilerplate cuteness" (whatever the hell THAT means) picked apart by self-appointed critics who have nothing to offer to the discussion or thread. You can post over there and be guaranteed that you're going to get actual replies, conversation, friendly banter, and real critique and advice. Not so much here, in my experience.



Oh, OK, here's some useful advice that you'll only find on Armorama:

> You call stuff by the wrong name in your posts and change what you call it from place to place. That makes it harder to follow what you are talking about.

> If you would've assembled the lower turret pieces first and packed the bottom with epoxy putty before reshaping it you would maintain a solid structure even if you break through the plastic and save yourself a lot of filler work later. You probably also would've avoided the gap under the gun.

> The "bolts" attaching the dust cover are more likely to be "press-the-dot" type fasteners. There are better ways of representing them than hex slices.

> If you are using plastic stock to represent fasteners you should consider getting a NWSL Chopper or a punch set. Either of these will give you heads with a consistent thickness and parallel faces that look better and are easier to use.

> Finally, your primer is too thick and hides detail. You really ought to consider why you are even bothering. Unless it has aggressive solvents or zinc or chromium compounds in it, it's not going to increase paint adhesion. You'll do better just washing your parts before painting. If you want a consistent color to check for flaws use your regular primary color.


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Tell ya what, buddy---you just stay right here and wait for this thread's original poster to get back with some progress, ok? That would be greaaaaaat.



OK Lumberg. (And not the one who [auto-censored]ed Jennifer Anniston.)


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Ultimately, your comment tells us more about YOU than anything.



I would hope so.

And you were able to learn what I was about even without some stupid meme at the bottom of the post to help you out.

KL
Garrand
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 10:59 PM UTC

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The M60 plain is plagued by mistakes:

1. main gun barrel too long and too thin!
2, M83 barrel too long!
3. M19 cupola is a piece of [auto-censored]; - replaced it with the Legend one's!
5. The hatches are "liberated" of any interrior details!
6. Even the sprocket is void it's mud holes!!!



Not to mention issues with the IR searchlight (too small), oversized DS mantlet cover, NO mantlet cover for the M19 cupola...

I have & built one, and replaced everything above with something else. I love the M60 -- my favorite tank -- so I wanted to go through the effort. But if anyone else (save Academy -- their M60 variants are pretty nice but saddled with ancient hull moldings!) released an M60 Slick I wouldn't have bothered with the Dragon kit.

BTW, I'm nearly done with a BL Saladin. Not as bad a kit as the others in the line, but still requires aftermarket to bring it up to par. Another subject I love so I was willing to do it, but some of these issues are not ones we should have to fix...

Damon.
thedoog
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Posted: Thursday, April 13, 2017 - 12:41 AM UTC

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Oh, OK, here's some useful advice that you'll only find on Armorama:

> You call stuff by the wrong name in your posts and change what you call it from place to place. That makes it harder to follow what you are talking about.

> If you would've assembled the lower turret pieces first and packed the bottom with epoxy putty before reshaping it you would maintain a solid structure even if you break through the plastic and save yourself a lot of filler work later. You probably also would've avoided the gap under the gun.

> The "bolts" attaching the dust cover are more likely to be "press-the-dot" type fasteners. There are better ways of representing them than hex slices.

> If you are using plastic stock to represent fasteners you should consider getting a NWSL Chopper or a punch set. Either of these will give you heads with a consistent thickness and parallel faces that look better and are easier to use.

> Finally, your primer is too thick and hides detail. You really ought to consider why you are even bothering. Unless it has aggressive solvents or zinc or chromium compounds in it, it's not going to increase paint adhesion. You'll do better just washing your parts before painting. If you want a consistent color to check for flaws use your regular primary color.


Quoted Text


Tell ya what, buddy---you just stay right here and wait for this thread's original poster to get back with some progress, ok? That would be greaaaaaat.



OK Lumberg. (And not the one who [auto-censored]ed Jennifer Anniston.)


Quoted Text


Ultimately, your comment tells us more about YOU than anything.



I would hope so.

And you were able to learn what I was about even without some stupid meme at the bottom of the post to help you out.

KL

Sigh.....deep breath..
Ok, Kurt--I'm going to man up and admit that I misread your original post, and target of critique. Fair enough. My fault, and apologies for my muted truculence.

Your suggestions are valid, and I appreciate you taking the time to post them. Honestly though, had I heard from you before starting this kit, I would have done things exactly as I had--not to be a stubborn dick, but because I have my own way of modeling (as do you) and my own standard of expectation of what "feels right" and looks good. I have never stood in the rivet counter camp--whether those little buttons are bolts or snaps doesn't really change my approach to them, modeling-wise. There's some kind of circular buttons there on the bottom of the covering, and I simulated that impression. That's what's important to me. Frankly, they're an afterthought to what the overall reality of the Milliput cover achieved, which was my goal, initially. I'm not trying to finish this build to make my place in the modeling world; I already am published frequently, and frankly, this model's being written up as I blog it as well. That's my priority. SO I appreciate the info for sure--thank you--and I know that mu attitude toward it might drive some people crazy--but like I said, I've always been more concerned with the artistic side of things rather than dead-nuts-accuracy. I can live with it. I doubt my wife or her friends or 99% of my modeling buddies are going to dismiss the model because it has octagonal styrene bolts rather than uniform punched styrene discs.It's going to look great in the magazine.

I knew ahead of time that I was going to hide whatever hole in the front of the turret appeared, so I didn't worry about that. As far as filling in the sides? Too much putty to bother with that. I used far less to accomplish what I wanted.

The primer was needed because of the Milliput, which was very susceptible to having small scratches and imperfections that needed filling. I also used it for the PE and for providing a more uniform color surface after getting the turret area all spotted up with Milliput putty residue. I also build cars, and I would never NOT prime a car model to find those nagging little imperfections that can ruin a gloss paint job. But I don't see any detail that's been "covered up", and I would challnge you to point out any that has been. Casting numbers, hull texturing, handles, bolts, etc--they're all plain to see. I don't do this on every model, by the way. I did so on this one to see the results of the putty cover and how it looks before I put down a base coat.

If I could give you some advice: take a deep breath and get over this need you feel to criticize peoples' method of expressing themselves. OK, I get it--you hate big signatures. Yeah, they can be annoying, and not something I would do--but I hate tattoos and piercings with a passion, and hate people who wear flip-flops, especially in an airport--but it doesn't mean I'm not going to fly or eat outdoors in the hip part of town? Get over it, man. You wasted too much text already complaining about it, and you're not going to change it. It took a cheeky rebuttal to your initial post for you to even comment on my work and make your suggestions; you wasted the entire first post moaning about peoples' signatures and banter. Life's too short my well-meaning friend. I hope you sneak in from time to time to watch the progress. I have some interesting ideas about the finish on this one.
SWATdoc
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Posted: Thursday, April 13, 2017 - 03:03 AM UTC
Hello Karl,

I have thoroughly enjoyed your modeling of this unique vehicle. You have provided a clear and concise narrative that I will benefit from, so, thank you. I said, Thank You, dammit! Wow, that felt good and I have no idea why...LOL!

Over the years, I have come to respect people like you, Kurt, Olivier and so many others for opinions, facts and objective observations.

There is a lot of talent that lurks within these forums. Even considering that written words do not always reflect intentions, emotions and so on, methinks that a computer provides a feeling of security for some folks to act braver than they actually are in person. It reminds me of road rage wherein one or more drivers are antagonistic and even deadly in their driving, but, are pretty meek once they park their respective automobiles.

There are a few who frequently post on modeling forums in such a manner that they would have to be a real bad mofo to survive with the same "attitude" in person, such is their rudeness. I have thought about a diorama displaying a model contest where some of the internet bad-asses actually meet the ones they have so carelessly insulted...it would probably resemble a bar fight! Lol!

Regardless of how good or accurate their knowledge may be, much of the value is lost in the manner they express it. On the other hand, if talking to people as if one is a Drill Sergeant is their true personality, so be it...in small doses. Personally, I never have understood this kind of approach in something as pleasant as building a model.

While not everyone shares the same language, interests or building skills, courtesy is fairly universal. Even in combat, there are times to be considerate, as ruthlessness is always just a whisper away and I know about that.

I have no doubt that you will continue to share your hard earned skills with others and I commend you for that. There is likely a silent majority who value what you and so many others post and share. So, keep it up! Your conviction and lucid presentations may inspire others to share their models on this forum.

Respectfully,

Allen
thedoog
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Posted: Thursday, April 13, 2017 - 06:39 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hello Karl,

I have thoroughly enjoyed your modeling of this unique vehicle. You have provided a clear and concise narrative that I will benefit from, so, thank you. I said, Thank You, dammit! Wow, that felt good and I have no idea why...LOL!

Over the years, I have come to respect people like you, Kurt, Olivier and so many others for opinions, facts and objective observations.

There is a lot of talent that lurks within these forums. Even considering that written words do not always reflect intentions, emotions and so on, methinks that a computer provides a feeling of security for some folks to act braver than they actually are in person. It reminds me of road rage wherein one or more drivers are antagonistic and even deadly in their driving, but, are pretty meek once they park their respective automobiles.

There are a few who frequently post on modeling forums in such a manner that they would have to be a real bad mofo to survive with the same "attitude" in person, such is their rudeness. I have thought about a diorama displaying a model contest where some of the internet bad-asses actually meet the ones they have so carelessly insulted...it would probably resemble a bar fight! Lol!

Regardless of how good or accurate their knowledge may be, much of the value is lost in the manner they express it. On the other hand, if talking to people as if one is a Drill Sergeant is their true personality, so be it...in small doses. Personally, I never have understood this kind of approach in something as pleasant as building a model.

While not everyone shares the same language, interests or building skills, courtesy is fairly universal. Even in combat, there are times to be considerate, as ruthlessness is always just a whisper away and I know about that.

I have no doubt that you will continue to share your hard earned skills with others and I commend you for that. There is likely a silent majority who value what you and so many others post and share. So, keep it up! Your conviction and lucid presentations may inspire others to share their models on this forum.

Respectfully,

Allen

Thank you, Allen. That was so nicely phrased and sincere; I appreciate that. I definitely think this whole little episode has more than enough blame to go around; I willingly shoulder my part in the miscommunication. But it's nice to hear from someone with an objective perspective. I honestly love to teach and instruct---I'm a guitar teacher at home, and I see my modeling articles as a didactic exercise in part as well. Thanks for letting me knwo that at least I'm reaching the audience that I am seeking.
Bravo1102
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Posted: Thursday, April 13, 2017 - 07:12 PM UTC
If one doesn't like user signatures there is an option to hide them. In defense of mine, it is a quote from an obscure satirist that I have lived by for decades.

And it makes dealing with abrasive persons so much easier, even entertaining at times.

And now back to building the beast.