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Crusader to Gazala Campaign
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Friday, December 15, 2017 - 02:07 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Gaz, I think the question about why the Stug in whitewash has to do with the current group build being an African theme?

I assumed you had the pictures posted for an opinion on the results of the hairspray technique ... or did I miss something?



I see. Sorry for the misunderstanding. The StuG isn't part of this campaign. It's just an experiment for when I try to wear desert camo off the Panzer IIIg (that has Panzer Gray as a base coat) that I am building for this campaign. I realize I could have asked this question in the main forum, but I knew I would get good responses from the seasoned and skilled modellers taking part in this campaign.

Gaz
petbat
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Posted: Friday, December 15, 2017 - 02:31 AM UTC
Really nice effect Gaz. In addition to what has been said, before the top colour hardens, you can add chipping around hatch edges, along ridges, etc using a toothpick or wooden BBQ skewer. Snap the skewer and the rough end works well for larger scuff marks. You are looking to add fine scratches or to remove the wash where the crew would handle hatches, rub up against the side of the hatch openings or where their boots would naturally rub it off, like raised details, panel edges, etc. This is especially the case on a STUG where climbing over the front and up to the hatches was the main entry and exit point.

To give you an idea. This Chaffee has scuff marks around the cupola where the commander gets in and out, the barrel has paint rubbed where the crew use it to lever themselves up and out, etc




Now all that said, you need to be mindful that white wash is no where as durable as paint. The extensive chipping done on some desert models is quite overdone to reality. Consider this:


American soldiers looking over destroyed German equipment after the battle of El Guettar, Tunisia. This is not colourised - it is an original Kodak colour photo from a well known series. Note the hatch interior colour is gray. How much chipped paint is there on this, even with it being destroyed?

Have a bit of a surf around and how many pics do you see of heavily chipped vehicles in the desert? Is it not more a case of dust worn off?
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/4f/76/a3/4f76a3c0e84e1478ffd44bc9305bf3a9.jpg
Check out the front road wheels here and then the rest of the vehicle
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Hf6e8zEGNmE/VXnMAG5-w1I/AAAAAAAACeI/kuHAYU4WPEU/s1600/german%2Btank.jpg
http://warfarehistorynetwork.com/wp-content/uploads/W-Tobruk-3-HT-Sep11.jpg
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/474x/f4/1f/4e/f41f4ea43d31678436065485ac351108.jpg

Modelling is an art form and artistic impression is the choice of the individual modeller. Do you want a Picasso/Dali or a Da Vinci/Rembrandt? Each has its own place of awe. 'To chip or not to chip' that is the real question Mr Shakespeare.
GazzaS
#424
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Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Friday, December 15, 2017 - 02:56 AM UTC
Hi Peter,
Some great and useful photos! Thank you.

I can agree with you about overly done effects. Then there is always that argument between 'realistic' and 'interesting'. I try to find a balance between the two but my lack of skills mean that I often find it really hard to do.

Love those photos!

Gaz


GazzaS
#424
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Posted: Friday, December 15, 2017 - 02:33 PM UTC
And here we are after unloading in Afrika with the door inners painted a very pale color.


Gaz
Sean50
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Manche, France
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Posted: Friday, December 15, 2017 - 08:27 PM UTC
Hello there

Well I finally go around to digging out a kit for this campaign.
Miniart Valentine Mk.I. The instructions (along with the box lid) have got lost somewhere in the mess that is my attic, luckily you can download them from the Miniart site.
Not sure which scheme yet as that's a way down the line.



Cheers

Sean
justsendit
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Colorado, United States
Joined: February 24, 2014
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Posted: Friday, December 15, 2017 - 09:52 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I see. Sorry for the misunderstanding. The StuG isn't part of this campaign. It's just an experiment for when I try to wear desert camo off the Panzer IIIg (that has Panzer Gray as a base coat) that I am building for this campaign.


Whew! … Thought I was gonna have to turn-in my sand goggles and shorts for winter gear and a bucket of whitewash! 😎 Lol!

Quoted Text

And here we are after unloading in Afrika with the door inners painted a very pale color.


Uh-oh Gaz! … Now you see it … now you don’t! Gaz, Looks like PB is ruining your enjoyable posting experience. 😖

To your comment: The turret hatch inners are a pale color. However, the commander’s cupola hatch inners should be the same color as the outside of the tank … or so I’ve been told.

—mike
Chaman911
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Posted: Friday, December 15, 2017 - 11:39 PM UTC
Gaz, thanks for explaining your painting procedure. That is pretty cool you mix your own colors.
Peter great pics! I Googled the battle of El Guettar and found a number of good color photos. I don’t know if they are colorized or original color photos but informative.
Looking at DAK paint schemes there seems to be a few different colors/schemes used. Am I correct in assuming most Panzer IIIs that took part in the Crusader- Gazala period of time would be dunkelgrau with RAL 8000 oversprayed? Would the RAL 8000/7008 “tropen” combination be present yet? Also when did 8020 get used? I tried researching this but just got myself lost. I would like to represent a vehicle operating in the early days of the campaign. Thanks for any information on this topic.


petbat
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Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 01:15 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Gaz, Looks like PB is ruining your enjoyable posting experience. 😖

—mike



PB. That is Photo Bucket.... not Petbat.....

You may be able to see your post pic Gaz, but no one that has not paid the ransom to PB, or has loaded up the workaround will be able to.
GazzaS
#424
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Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 01:18 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Uh-oh Gaz! … Now you see it … now you don’t! Gaz, Looks like PB is ruining your enjoyable posting experience. 😖

To your comment: The turret hatch inners are a pale color. However, the commander’s cupola hatch inners should be the same color as the outside of the tank … or so I’ve been told.

—mike



Dang-it! I use Firefox as my server which has a fix for the Photobucket BS.

My Apologies everyone!

EDIT: I have found another photo depicting the turret side doors.

Gaz
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 01:21 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Gaz, Looks like PB is ruining your enjoyable posting experience. 😖

—mike



PB. That is Photo Bucket.... not Petbat.....

You may be able to see your post pic Gaz, but no one that has not paid the ransom to PB, or has loaded up the workaround will be able to.



Even I can't see it today. PB must be working around the fix.

Gaz
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 01:30 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Gaz, thanks for explaining your painting procedure. That is pretty cool you mix your own colors.
Peter great pics! I Googled the battle of El Guettar and found a number of good color photos. I don’t know if they are colorized or original color photos but informative.
Looking at DAK paint schemes there seems to be a few different colors/schemes used. Am I correct in assuming most Panzer IIIs that took part in the Crusader- Gazala period of time would be dunkelgrau with RAL 8000 oversprayed? Would the RAL 8000/7008 “tropen” combination be present yet? Also when did 8020 get used? I tried researching this but just got myself lost. I would like to represent a vehicle operating in the early days of the campaign. Thanks for any information on this topic.



Bryan,
Here is a quote:
On 17 March 1941, it was ordered to paint all vehicles in North Africa a base color of Gelbbraun RAL 8000 (yellow-brown), with one-third of the vehicle covered by Graugrün RAL 7008 (gray-green), with feathered edges. To save paint, the areas covered by Graugrün were not to be covered with the Gelbbraun base color. Small items should only be painted in one color. On 25 March 1942, Gelbbraun and Graugrün were replaced by Braun RAL 8020 (brown) and Grau RAL 7027 (gray), once existing paint stocks were depleted, with no change in pattern.

Hopefully this is accurate.

Gaz
justsendit
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Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 01:37 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Even I can't see it today. PB must be working around the fix.

Gaz


I was wondering how long that fix would last. Sadly, they have their own fix ...

Photobucket's 3rd Party Hosting Policy: $399.99 a year 🤮

Sorry, didn't mean to get off topic — just giving a heads up to those whom are unaware.

—mike
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 01:42 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hello there

Well I finally go around to digging out a kit for this campaign.
Miniart Valentine Mk.I. The instructions (along with the box lid) have got lost somewhere in the mess that is my attic, luckily you can download them from the Miniart site.
Not sure which scheme yet as that's a way down the line.

Cheers

Sean



Sean,
Welcome to the campaign! Glad to see another Valentine! It's good to see we're gettng a fair representation of British subjects. I'm looking forward to your build.

Gaz
petbat
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Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 01:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Am I correct in assuming most Panzer IIIs that took part in the Crusader- Gazala period of time would be dunkelgrau with RAL 8000 oversprayed? Would the RAL 8000/7008 “tropen” combination be present yet? Also when did 8020 get used?




Hi Bryan

Yes it is hard to get good solid information on colours. We know the dates orders were issued, but not when (or if) they were followed.

Based on the references I have, it depended on what Ausf Panzer 3 and when it was sent. The first shipments to the WD in the first 2-3 months were sent in Dunkelgrau but orders were issued in March 1941 for them to be painted 2/3s RAL 8000 Gelb-Braun and 1/3 RAL 7008 Graugrun. So shipments sent after March were to be painted before being shipped and likely were. Therefore the majority of vehicles during Crusader to Gazala would be this scheme.

The change to RAL 8020 brown was ordered in March 1942. At the same time the secondary colour RAL 7027 Grau (a kind of sandy gray colour) was used. However, vehicles in 8000/7008 were often not repainted 8020/7027.
Chaman911
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Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 02:31 AM UTC
Great! Thank you Gaz and Peter!
MichaelSatin
Staff MemberCampaigns Administrator
AEROSCALE
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 19, 2008
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Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 05:00 AM UTC
Lots of great work going on here!

I just received this for Hanukkah:





I know I shouldn't, but it's very tempting...

Michael
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 07:12 AM UTC
Hi Michael!
What a great gift you were given! Would love to have you and your Hurri taking part of the campaign. It would fit in perfectly.

Listen to the temptation and enlist here: Enlist

Gaz

GazzaS
#424
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Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 10:03 AM UTC
Hi Everyone,
I'm finally ready for a shot of primer.


Over the engine vents are some white metal PE grills. For the first time I used Tamiya primer for metals. Hopefully the paint won't be easily scuffed from the PE parts.

Happy building!

Gaz
Mrclark7
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Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 11:46 AM UTC
ah, Graugrun RAL 7008 easy enough.

(Types in Graugrun RAL 7008) in Google search for swatch color.

DOH!


GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, December 16, 2017 - 01:52 PM UTC
heh!

I'd take anything except #4.

Gaz
Mrclark7
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Sunday, December 17, 2017 - 01:50 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Gaz,
What was your technique for creating wear effect vs chipping with your white wash? I would like to mimick it on my build to show some dunkelgrau showing through the RAL 8000.
Thanks



Bryan,
To understand how this effect worked for me, I have to explain that my entire painting method is different. I don't use model paints. I save tons of money by using artist paints from a tube. I mix my own colors from about 12 tubes of paint. Each tube costs around $2 and goes a lot further than any bottle of model paint. I'll explain how:

I use only a few ingredients to make two different grades of paint. I call one grade "durable finish" and the other grade "weak finish".

Durable Finish: is Artist acrylic tube paint thinned entirely with Future, or Pledge, or whatever name it goes by in your area. Once in the airbrush I may add a few drops of my own homemade thinner.

Homemade Thinner: 1/2 cup glass cleaner (like Windex) + 1/2 cup of tap water + a few drops of glycerol. (I have heard that liquid dishwashing soap works, too) The glycerol breaks the surface tension of the water.

Weak Finish: is Artist acrylic tube paint thinned with Future until it reaches the consistency of latex house paint. It is then thinned with my homemade thinner until it reaches a consistency for airbrush use.

I learned this technique watching Youtube videos once I learned that some other model builders were also using these amazingly inexpensive paints. I have some specialty model paints, but most of the major work is covered by artist acrylics.

I have been using the same $50 dollars worth of paint and Future and Glass Cleaner and Glycerol for over two years and 20 models. My models cover IJA Aircraft, Luftwaffe Aircraft, USAAF aircraft, WWI aircraft, and Panzers. I have a color recipe book that gets me close to the shade I want. The rest is done by eye.

The StuG was originally painted with a shade of Panzer Gray I mixed as a "Durable Finish". The paint was applied over a year ago.

Yesterday I applied the hairspray and let it dry. Then I airbrushed on a "Weak Finish" of pure white sprayed on until most of the Panzer Gray couldn't be seen on the upper surfaces. I used less paint on the lower surfaces, allowing the Panzer Gray to show through a little.

The wear was done with a Stiff paintbrush, a Soft paintbrush, and a medium toothbrush and tap water.

I hope you find this useful and inexpensive.

Gaz




Just finding humor in wondering which swatch some modelers use in picking that "accurate" color in all the gray, green, brown, yellow RAL number paints. And how their choice is the right one.

Good to see someone enjoying doing while keeping it simple.
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Sunday, December 17, 2017 - 02:58 AM UTC
Kelly,

I think a lot of people are just happy to assume that their favorite paint company "got it right".

For me, I just try to get close. I find that the closer I try to get, the more I have left over after the job.

Gaz
JoeOsborne
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California, United States
Joined: October 08, 2013
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Posted: Sunday, December 17, 2017 - 03:45 AM UTC
Latest UPDATE on the Quad and 25 pounder build.

Have finished the interior section, and almost finished weathering the shell:







Will be attaching the bottom section with the engine and the two to sections next.... then finishing up the shell.

Comments, suggestions?



GazzaS
#424
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Posted: Sunday, December 17, 2017 - 05:48 AM UTC
Joe,
I think everything looks great. Love the paint tonal variations you were able to make.

Gaz
justsendit
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Posted: Sunday, December 17, 2017 - 06:29 AM UTC
@ Sean – Welcome to Gazala!

@ Gaz – Fortunately, those PE grills won’t’ really get handled like some metal parts once they’re installed, Still, primer is always a good thing. Tamiya rattle-can, I presume — good stuff. Mist lightly so as to avoid clogging the holes — they’ll look awesome once they're painted-up. Also, proper curing time is your friend.

@ Kelly – Love the swatch comparisons!

@ Joe – Nice chipping restraint — that’s looking really good! Please explain your weathering process.

@ Michael – I’ll be looking up overhead for your Hawker Wingy-thingy! Listen to Gaz … “enlist!”

Cheers!🍺
—mike