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Suggestions for a good punch and die set?
jrutman
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Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 11:18 PM UTC
Plus a vendor ?
TIA,J
errains
#045
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Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 11:24 PM UTC
UMM-USA

http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/index.php?cPath=21_145

Good Tools Good Price
Hope it helps....
jrutman
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Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 11:52 PM UTC

Quoted Text

UMM-USA

http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/index.php?cPath=21_145

Good Tools Good Price
Hope it helps....



Thanks Eric !
J
11Bravo_C2
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Posted: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 11:54 PM UTC
Jerry,


In the past I've read the Waldron Mini Punch and Die sets were the bees-knees for modelers. I believe they were/are made in the USA in some tiny Oregon town. Not cheap by any means.

Roll Models shows as having them with spare parts for when they wear out or get lost .

http://www.rollmodels.net/standard/catalog.htm



RP Toolz makes 2 types. Round and hexagonal punches.

http://rptoolz.unas.hu/en/spl/427615/Punch-and-die-sets
jrutman
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Posted: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 01:22 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Jerry,


In the past I've read the Waldron Mini Punch and Die sets were the bees-knees for modelers. I believe they were/are made in the USA in some tiny Oregon town. Not cheap by any means.

Roll Models shows as having them with spare parts for when they wear out or get lost .

http://www.rollmodels.net/standard/catalog.htm



RP Toolz makes 2 types. Round and hexagonal punches.

http://rptoolz.unas.hu/en/spl/427615/Punch-and-die-sets



Thanks,I used to have the Waldron sets but they wore out. Only about 3 of the smaller et still work and some of the holes are plugged with broken punches,etc. The toolz one looks to be a better design.
J
JohnTapsell
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Posted: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 02:05 AM UTC
The RP Toolz sets are really nice and very well made. I have seen them in the flesh but at the time couldn't justify the cost.

However, I'm a sucker for a good gadget and I'm aiming to purchase at least one of their sets soon.

I already own the UMM Maxi Punch & Die Set - PT.11 "ROUND" (MN030). It's a great set with a clean punch action but I find the circular format of the unit to be slightly awkward to manipulate - ideal for punching discs out but not so good if you're trying to create holes in a sheet of plastic (an instrument panel in a vehicle for example).

I also own a Historex round set and an old Reheat Models hex set which I've (over) used for years and both need replacing.

Regards,
John
Petition2God
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Posted: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 02:24 AM UTC

Quoted Text

UMM-USA

http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/index.php?cPath=21_145

Good Tools Good Price
Hope it helps....



Another big thanks to Eric! I've been looking for these!

James
bots1141
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Posted: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 06:54 AM UTC
Check out this thread. Someone just asked the same question

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47207/thread/1497464466/last-1497483327/View+Thread
SSGToms
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Posted: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 06:58 AM UTC
I have all three of the UMM-USA punch and die sets and they are superb. Never had any better. I highly recommend them.
jrutman
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Posted: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 07:10 PM UTC
Thanks for all the good tips fellas ! I appreciate it a lot.
J
bill_c
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MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
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Posted: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 08:41 PM UTC
OK, I'm showing my ignorance, but other than liking cool tools, what modeling use is a P&D set??
jrutman
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Posted: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 09:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text

OK, I'm showing my ignorance, but other than liking cool tools, what modeling use is a P&D set??



Making nice little discs and bolt heads,etc. I need a new one as my Waldron one wore out and I need to make buttons !
J
Headhunter506
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Posted: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 10:49 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

OK, I'm showing my ignorance, but other than liking cool tools, what modeling use is a P&D set??



Making nice little discs and bolt heads,etc. I need a new one as my Waldron one wore out and I need to make buttons !
J



Buttons?!? Have you considered using Aber 35 A101 Screw Heads



or 35 A108 Cross Type Screw Heads?



There are more than enough sizes to suit your needs. If you really want to make them realistic, all you need to do is place the PE sheet, slot side up, on a cutting mat and press a ballpoint pen tip at the center of the cross to impart a convex shape on the obverse, just the way uniform buttons look. Besides, it's cheaper than buying a P&D set solely for what amounts to piecework at the Garment District.
Petition2God
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Posted: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 11:17 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

OK, I'm showing my ignorance, but other than liking cool tools, what modeling use is a P&D set??



Making nice little discs and bolt heads,etc. I need a new one as my Waldron one wore out and I need to make buttons !
J



O, yeah, making unlimited number of bolt heads and rivets cleanly. Lots and lots of them as needed from Evergreen plastic cards whenever when your kit looks something like:

http://l450v.alamy.com/450v/c7x2a3/heavy-duty-nuts-bolts-rivets-and-air-vent-on-a-ww1-mark-5-tank-the-c7x2a3.jpg

PE ones eventually get expensive and are not easy to cut. Plus, plastic ones are easier to glue. Plastic hexagonal rods may be cut but the heights and angles get uneven. P&D set changed my life seriously.
bill_c
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Posted: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 11:20 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I need to make buttons!


Buttons? Really? Wow. No wonder you won it all at AMPS.
165thspc
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Posted: Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 12:49 AM UTC
I suggest you try your local leather making shop. Many shops sell leather working tools as well. I got a great set of small individual punches there. You will find that your model building abilities go up exponentially once you can make a quick assortment of round cutouts and buttons. (Stacks of them!)

Not cheap but hobby money well spent.
jrutman
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Posted: Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 01:16 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

OK, I'm showing my ignorance, but other than liking cool tools, what modeling use is a P&D set??



Making nice little discs and bolt heads,etc. I need a new one as my Waldron one wore out and I need to make buttons !
J



Buttons?!? Have you considered using Aber 35 A101 Screw Heads



or 35 A108 Cross Type Screw Heads?



There are more than enough sizes to suit your needs. If you really want to make them realistic, all you need to do is place the PE sheet, slot side up, on a cutting mat and press a ballpoint pen tip at the center of the cross to impart a convex shape on the obverse, just the way uniform buttons look. Besides, it's cheaper than buying a P&D set solely for what amounts to piecework at the Garment District.



That is something I never thought about and a great idea. I had also thought of using Grandt Line model railroad rivets.They have a nice convex shape plus come on a gate off the sprue so you can drill a hole in the fig and stick the button on exactly where it should go !
Thanks bru!
J
jrutman
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Posted: Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 01:18 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I suggest you try your local leather making shop. Many shops sell leather working tools as well. I got a great set of small individual punches there. You will find that your model building abilities go up exponentially once you can make a quick assortment of round cutouts and buttons. (Stacks of them!)

Not cheap but hobby money well spent.



I have an embossing set that is perfect for punching in rivets on a smooth surface.
J
Headhunter506
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Posted: Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 02:59 AM UTC
Jerry, I forgot about MasterClub MC435001 rivet spherical (0.4 mm insertion hole 0.3 mm). They're mind-numbingly small; but, they do work. I tried them a while back as buttons on an old DML figure. Only $2.59 for a bag of 200.

Armor35.ru is a great online shop. Stateside shipping is inexpensive and pretty quick.
jrutman
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Posted: Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 06:16 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Check out this thread. Someone just asked the same question

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47207/thread/1497464466/last-1497483327/View+Thread



And your point is ?
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 06:45 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Check out this thread. Someone just asked the same question

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47207/thread/1497464466/last-1497483327/View+Thread



And your point is ?



Maybe others following this thread could look there for additional info?

KL
jrutman
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Posted: Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 06:17 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Check out this thread. Someone just asked the same question

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47207/thread/1497464466/last-1497483327/View+Thread



And your point is ?



Maybe others following this thread could look there for additional info?

KL



That is what I would assume but the laughing emojis threw me off. So what is up Kurt ?
J
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 06:25 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Check out this thread. Someone just asked the same question

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47207/thread/1497464466/last-1497483327/View+Thread



And your point is ?



Maybe others following this thread could look there for additional info?

KL



That is what I would assume but the laughing emojis threw me off. So what is up Kurt ?
J



I have no idea - I didn't write the first post.

KL
ericadeane
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Posted: Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 07:34 PM UTC
Jerry: for smaller domed rivets, I do the following:

I salami slice appropriate diameter styrene rod to make discs. I affix the disc and once dried, I impress the disc with a beading tool. The sets come in many sizes and the ends are concave. A quick press with one over the disc compresses it to a domed rivet shape.


I've also used this method to alter several DML Halftracks which have largish domed rivets. On the real thing, the exposed heads were domed screwheads. I've shaved off the larger ones and replaced them with the method described above or reduced the ones that protruded too much. Then I follow up with a quick knife imprint to make the screw slot.

My only caveat is this: this is my preferred method for very small rivets. I wouldn't use this method if I wanted to add larger ones (like on an M3 Lee) as the less than perfect uniformity may be noticeable on a larger rivet. For those, I use Tichy or Grandt or resin MasterClub rivets.
Hope this helps.
jrutman
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Posted: Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 07:57 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Check out this thread. Someone just asked the same question

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47207/thread/1497464466/last-1497483327/View+Thread



And your point is ?



Maybe others following this thread could look there for additional info?

KL



That is what I would assume but the laughing emojis threw me off. So what is up Kurt ?
J



I have no idea - I didn't write the first post.

KL



Heheheheh,I meant what is up with YOU ? I am not trying to be confrontational man. And I don't think you are either.
J
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