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Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Suggestions for a good punch and die set?
jrutman
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: April 10, 2011
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Posted: Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 08:01 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Jerry: for smaller domed rivets, I do the following:

I salami slice appropriate diameter styrene rod to make discs. I affix the disc and once dried, I impress the disc with a beading tool. The sets come in many sizes and the ends are concave. A quick press with one over the disc compresses it to a domed rivet shape.


I've also used this method to alter several DML Halftracks which have largish domed rivets. On the real thing, the exposed heads were domed screwheads. I've shaved off the larger ones and replaced them with the method described above or reduced the ones that protruded too much. Then I follow up with a quick knife imprint to make the screw slot.

My only caveat is this: this is my preferred method for very small rivets. I wouldn't use this method if I wanted to add larger ones (like on an M3 Lee) as the less than perfect uniformity may be noticeable on a larger rivet. For those, I use Tichy or Grandt or resin MasterClub rivets.
Hope this helps.



Excellent technique ! I may go to that method if I ever get around to building my C type commo halftrack in the stash. My main bent here though is to make buttons ! This method may also work for that and I have this set of punches already in my tool arsenal.
Thanks,J
KurtLaughlin
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Joined: January 18, 2003
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Posted: Friday, June 16, 2017 - 01:01 AM UTC

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Heheheheh,I meant what is up with YOU ?



Ummm . . . I just got back from the butcher's with more curing salt so I can try a different bacon recipe.


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I am not trying to be confrontational man. And I don't think you are either.



Umm . . . No, I wasn't trying to be either. Just giving my interpretation of what the other guy wrote. I thought you confused us because we are both listed as being in PA.

KL
jrutman
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Posted: Friday, June 16, 2017 - 02:29 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Heheheheh,I meant what is up with YOU ?



Ummm . . . I just got back from the butcher's with more curing salt so I can try a different bacon recipe.


Quoted Text

I am not trying to be confrontational man. And I don't think you are either.



Umm . . . No, I wasn't trying to be either. Just giving my interpretation of what the other guy wrote. I thought you confused us because we are both listed as being in PA.

KL



The interwebs are great for a lot of things but communicating in the written word can be a drawback if the language is not precise,etc. I fall victim to it more than a few times. I experience a lot of pushback in my daily life so sometimes can seem very testy and the typing thing isn't always my friend ! Long story short,I am happy there are no hard feelings,
J
Petition2God
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Colorado, United States
Joined: February 06, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, June 20, 2017 - 12:25 PM UTC
I need your advice on using these: http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_145&products_id=6609

I've been trying to punch some Evergreen plastic sheets to make hexagonal heads but due to the flexibility of the polystyrene, the shapes are coming out inconsistently. I am getting like 2 acceptable looking ones out of 10 punches. I've put some old magazines underneath the plastic sheet when I punch.

Is there a good way to do this? What am I doing wrong, folks?
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Tuesday, June 20, 2017 - 04:07 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I need your advice on using these: http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_145&products_id=6609

I've been trying to punch some Evergreen plastic sheets to make hexagonal heads but due to the flexibility of the polystyrene, the shapes are coming out inconsistently. I am getting like 2 acceptable looking ones out of 10 punches. I've put some old magazines underneath the plastic sheet when I punch.

Is there a good way to do this? What am I doing wrong, folks?



As I recall, those are only really useful for thin sheet (.010 or less), and according to the site description are meant for use with aluminum, not plastic. I bought a set at AMPS one year because it was only $5, but I've never used it.

For plastic I use either UMM, RP, or the remaining good holes in my old Historex set.

KL
JSSVIII
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: March 28, 2007
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Posted: Wednesday, June 21, 2017 - 04:19 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I have all three of the UMM-USA punch and die sets and they are superb. Never had any better. I highly recommend them.



I also have the UMM round punch and die set, and it is an excellent tool, worth every penny. I have been meaning to get the hex set also.
tankmodeler
#417
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 01, 2004
KitMaker: 3,123 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, June 21, 2017 - 11:17 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I need your advice on using these: http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_145&products_id=6609

I've been trying to punch some Evergreen plastic sheets to make hexagonal heads but due to the flexibility of the polystyrene, the shapes are coming out inconsistently. I am getting like 2 acceptable looking ones out of 10 punches. I've put some old magazines underneath the plastic sheet when I punch.

Is there a good way to do this? What am I doing wrong, folks?



As I recall, those are only really useful for thin sheet (.010 or less), and according to the site description are meant for use with aluminum, not plastic. I bought a set at AMPS one year because it was only $5, but I've never used it.

KL



Yeah, as Kurt says they are for punching out thin sheet aluminum shapes. I asked the UMM guy at an AMPS Nats and that's what he said.

And to get the best results you need a hard rubber piece underneath. Luckily, being Canadian, there are loads of smooth hard rubber things lying around rinks throughout the country...

Paul
tankmodeler
#417
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Posted: Wednesday, June 21, 2017 - 11:23 PM UTC

Quoted Text

OK, I'm showing my ignorance, but other than liking cool tools, what modeling use is a P&D set??


My god, what don't you use them for!

I am constantly using them on armour models, whether as washers/bolts/rivets or as parts of hinges, spacers, etc. I also use them to form a clean hole in thin sheet when needed.

I scratchbuild a lot and I find my P&D sets absolutely indispensable.

And as for the PE screw and bolt heads, I find the use of styrene parts infinitely preferable as they are much easier to attach with the styrene cement being much more forgiving and solidly attaching than either CA/Future or Gorilla glue.

Plus, trying to get a sprue nib off of a .020" PE bolt head is a complete pain.

Seriously, I've had 2 P&D sets for 25 years and I really couldn't do without them.

Paul
11Bravo_C2
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Posted: Thursday, June 22, 2017 - 01:30 AM UTC

Quoted Text

OK, I'm showing my ignorance, but other than liking cool tools, what modeling use is a P&D set??



So you can create extra detail for your models like hex bolts or rivets. Yes, you can "salami" slice Evergreen and Plastruct styrene rod, but the thickness of the cut part wont be accurate.





jrutman
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: April 10, 2011
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Posted: Thursday, June 22, 2017 - 06:18 PM UTC
Ooo-oo-ooo !! I wants the top one in that last pic ! Perfect !!
Thanks man !
J
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