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Campaigns: Completed Campaigns
Campaigns that are completed should be grouped here.
Hosted by John Pereira
British Brigade
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,432 posts
Armorama: 1,388 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 06, 2018 - 02:47 AM UTC
Another Nice one for the collection Iain.

Thanks for joining in
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
Joined: May 05, 2006
KitMaker: 817 posts
Armorama: 481 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 05, 2018 - 12:26 PM UTC
Apart from some ham fisted mechanic putting one set of tracks on backwards (so hard to get good help these days ) , the Valentine is now done.









petbat
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,432 posts
Armorama: 1,388 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 01, 2018 - 01:04 PM UTC
Another fine build for the collection Rory. Sweet.

Iain. It will be worth it in the end.
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
Joined: May 05, 2006
KitMaker: 817 posts
Armorama: 481 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 01, 2018 - 10:48 AM UTC
Decals are on, and now I have begun the slow process of assembling the individual track links.

McRunty
#491
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Missouri, United States
Joined: April 06, 2016
KitMaker: 253 posts
Armorama: 137 posts
Posted: Friday, April 13, 2018 - 09:32 PM UTC
Calling this one done. Overall was a pretty good build



petbat
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,432 posts
Armorama: 1,388 posts
Posted: Friday, April 13, 2018 - 01:30 AM UTC
Nice work on the Radiator Damian. Definitely worth the time there.

Tom that is a fantastic finish. Looks great. Thanks for joining in.
TMoon
#152
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Texas, United States
Joined: December 07, 2002
KitMaker: 487 posts
Armorama: 441 posts
Posted: Friday, April 13, 2018 - 12:20 AM UTC
Here are my photos of the finished Churchill Mk III
The same photos are in the Gallery



I'm having trouble getting the photos to show up here.
Go to the gallery if you want to see them



Tom
Removed by original poster on 04/13/18 - 18:57:43 (GMT).
Removed by original poster on 04/13/18 - 18:56:52 (GMT).
Sleepwalker71
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 30, 2012
KitMaker: 162 posts
Armorama: 146 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 12, 2018 - 04:44 PM UTC
Thanks Gents. Yeah, I have found this gun laid on the Valentine tank quite ridiculous, but I think it shows very well the scale of the challenge designers were faced against.

Meanwhile, I had given some attention to the radiator external surface moulded on the rear deck. Aluminium true metal paint from AK, followed by dark brown panel accent from Tamiya then dirtied more with Engine Grim and finally dusted with Light Dust deposit, both from AK.



It may sound like overkill for an area being barely visible, but IMHO it works nice, especially when just after last step it lost its excessive shine. So now when I dry-fit rear deck engine cover it is visible under a certain angle and light conditions.



See you next time,
Damian
d6mst0
#453
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Texas, United States
Joined: August 28, 2016
KitMaker: 881 posts
Armorama: 422 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 10, 2018 - 04:45 PM UTC
Damian,

Your build is coming along nicely, looks to be a clean assembly. Looking forward to the paint work.

Mark
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,432 posts
Armorama: 1,388 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 10, 2018 - 03:10 PM UTC
Looking very busy Damian. Lots of detail painting to look forward to.

Love the pic with the Valentine Gun Tank. Easy to see why the 17 pounder was not fitted in a modified turret!
Sleepwalker71
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 30, 2012
KitMaker: 162 posts
Armorama: 146 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 08, 2018 - 05:43 PM UTC
First comparison of 17 pdr gun and Valentine being the base of Archer.



Here are some construction photos.

Some holes to be filled, grove visible is an moulding artifact - on the other side is a running gear mounting point point.





Driver's post with some Eduard's parts attached. Note lack of the dashboard as it will be installed later, after painting.



Gun. Primed with grey Surfacer 1500. Note that Tamiya depicted gun breech as open, but handle position (left from a breech) upwards indicates it shall be closed - what I did with a small modification of the parts. The whole module will be installed after interior painting. Tamiya's engineering makes it easy - just press and click.









Lower interior. Nothing special with some PE parts and sanded out holes.





Upper interior. On the wall visible half of the crew seats folded - ther half will be attached after painting. These seats when used were attached to the nooks visible on the fenders tops.





And finally all modules dry-fitted. What is clear that interior was extremely tight for the crew of four.





On the photos, some parts are still missing like a light machine gun and Sten guns and of course front wall. But this will come after painting the interior. At this point, I will attach complete running gear too.
For painting, I will use custom-made mix of  SCC15 (5xXF-61 Dark Green, 2xXF-62 Olive Drab, 3xXF-3 Yellow).

See you soon,
Damian
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberTOS Moderator
KITMAKER NETWORK
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Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 4,176 posts
Armorama: 3,572 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 08, 2018 - 04:25 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Very nicely done Iain. Love the colours. They really accentuate the scheme.

If you are interested, one way to limit bleed under the tape is to have a gloss finish on the coat you are masking. The tape seals better.

Another is do very light fine coats of the top colour along the edge of the tape first, allowing it to dry before applying the next coat. Paint over the tape onto the model, not on the model in the direction of the tape edge to avoid air pushing paint under the tape edge or along any grooves. Build the coats up very gradually until there is just enough colour to hide the base colour. Light coats also helps avoid paint lifting when you peel the tape off.

Cheers



A third method is to paint with the masked colour first. The idea here is to let the masked colour bleed in under the masking tape and seal it. Example: Paint yellow. Put on masking tape to mark out the area where there should be green instead. Paint yellow to seal the masking tape and thus protect the yellow area under the masking tape. Paint green. Remove tape.

/ Robin
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,432 posts
Armorama: 1,388 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 08, 2018 - 03:07 PM UTC
Very nicely done Iain. Love the colours. They really accentuate the scheme.

If you are interested, one way to limit bleed under the tape is to have a gloss finish on the coat you are masking. The tape seals better.

Another is do very light fine coats of the top colour along the edge of the tape first, allowing it to dry before applying the next coat. Paint over the tape onto the model, not on the model in the direction of the tape edge to avoid air pushing paint under the tape edge or along any grooves. Build the coats up very gradually until there is just enough colour to hide the base colour. Light coats also helps avoid paint lifting when you peel the tape off.

Cheers
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
Joined: May 05, 2006
KitMaker: 817 posts
Armorama: 481 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 08, 2018 - 11:14 AM UTC
So masking for a caunter scheme is painful.
Second colour masking...


Third colour masking..


Final...



Theses are the same colours I used in on my M3 Stuart with some tonal adjustments.

The second colour has gone from a medium grey-green to a medium grey-blue and my darker shade has lost some of it's brown/khaki tone and tended dark grey.
Sleepwalker71
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 30, 2012
KitMaker: 162 posts
Armorama: 146 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 04, 2018 - 05:35 PM UTC
Except for some differences in antenna arrangement, your Valentine looks quite familiar
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
Joined: May 05, 2006
KitMaker: 817 posts
Armorama: 481 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 04, 2018 - 05:31 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Pave-Hawk,

What color and brand did you put on? I like the look of it, not to yellow or brown.

Mark



The paint is Humbrol, and it's a custom mix.
I originally made it for my M3 Stuart, and it was a mix of 83, 94 and 63 with some old flat white that was starting to yellow. I mixed it purely by eyeball for the Stuart, though it's mostly 63 and white, and then emptied the tin of "white" into it to lighten it up for the Valentine so that it's the same colour but with a different tone.
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,432 posts
Armorama: 1,388 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 04, 2018 - 05:23 PM UTC
The Valentine looks great Iain.
d6mst0
#453
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Texas, United States
Joined: August 28, 2016
KitMaker: 881 posts
Armorama: 422 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 04, 2018 - 04:35 PM UTC
Pave-Hawk,

What color and brand did you put on? I like the look of it, not to yellow or brown.

Mark
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
Joined: May 05, 2006
KitMaker: 817 posts
Armorama: 481 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 04, 2018 - 03:00 PM UTC
First colour coat is on and ready for masking up the caunter scheme

Kanguroo
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Vietnam
Joined: May 07, 2006
KitMaker: 390 posts
Armorama: 300 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 31, 2018 - 07:01 PM UTC
It looks nice with Matilda, Mark.

I start the modern Challenger 2 for this campaign.


Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
Joined: May 05, 2006
KitMaker: 817 posts
Armorama: 481 posts
Posted: Friday, March 30, 2018 - 01:16 PM UTC
That is one sweet looking Matilda Mark, well done!



My Valentine is ready for paint and had been primed since this photo.

petbat
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,432 posts
Armorama: 1,388 posts
Posted: Friday, March 30, 2018 - 01:30 AM UTC
Very well done Mark. I think the figures are quite good for a 3rd try. Better than my 3rd try for sure.

You have done the venerable "Phantom" proud. tHanks for joining in.

d6mst0
#453
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Texas, United States
Joined: August 28, 2016
KitMaker: 881 posts
Armorama: 422 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 29, 2018 - 02:46 AM UTC
All,

I am calling my Tamiya Matillda done. The figures stink as this is my only third attempt at them, but practice makes perfect and do I need the practice.

The markings are for a Matillda in North Africa, 1941 so I covered it with sand.

Here are a few photos of the final there will be more on the campaign gallery.

Mark