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Hosted by John Pereira
Under New Management 2018
d6mst0
#453
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Texas, United States
Joined: August 28, 2016
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Posted: Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 10:06 AM UTC
Matthew,

Lead foil for mud flaps, I will have to try it. How thick of foil did you use?

Mark
brekinapez
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Georgia, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 10:22 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Matthew,

Lead foil for mud flaps, I will have to try it. How thick of foil did you use?

Mark



Does anyone know a good place to order it? None of the art stores in my area seem to carry it.
Northern_Lad
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Posted: Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 06:31 PM UTC
@ Mark and Shell: sorry small correction, itís not lead foil but the heavy foil you get on slightly more expensive bottles of wine over the cork. That should be fairly easily sourced, and you get a nice drink too!

Cheers

Matthew
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 08:44 PM UTC
Some imported beers have a foil cover here in Australia.

You might also have better luck trying more dedicated craft stores, rather than combo Art and Craft.

Failing the wine/beer bottle option, try motor accessory stores for what we call brass shim. That comes in various thicknesses down to paper thin.
RobinNilsson
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Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 09:33 PM UTC
Could aluminum/aluminium foil be an alternative?
I am thinking about the heavier/thicker type used in those alu-foil containers used for food packaging (either at home to store in the freezer or commercially for ready or semiready meals).







It is fairly stiff compared to the foil on bottles but it's softer than brass ...

Oven foil is probably to thin for mudflaps.
/ Robin
krasnov
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Distrito Federal, Mexico
Joined: April 02, 2008
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Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 04:40 AM UTC
Hi

Im begining with my project



More photos soon
Regards
brekinapez
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Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 06:33 AM UTC
I don't drink as I have a mild alcohol allergy and my wife buys the cheaper wine with artificial corks, but the heavy foil food trays I can certainly get ahold of.
Northern_Lad
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United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 09:47 AM UTC
Hello,

Iíve been thinking....

It seems the Germans made at least one mod to their beute Valentine (probably captured on the eastern front, the Russians having received it from the Brits) on my reference pic; In it, you can see a german shrouded headlight.

Sooooooooooo, Iím thinking if they went to that much trouble, they might also have kitted the Valentine out with other German nick-nacks (bolt clippers, jack, spade, etc.). Soooooooo, Iíve filled in all the locating holes for the Brit nick-nacks in readiness for installing the German counterparts, raided from the spares box.

Hereís a pic:



Will mount the kit soon.

Damn, I planned to build this one OOB and see what happens!

cheers

Matthew
brekinapez
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Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 09:58 AM UTC
Actually, they did tend to swap out tools unless they were specific to the vehicle and there wasn't a German equivalent.
JohnDoe4th
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California, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 04:28 PM UTC

Quoted Text


John A, are you just doing the scheme or putting the 75mm howitzer in too?




Just the camo scheme. For a weapon, im going to use a MG34 laying on some sandbags. Sandbags are going to made out of milliput.


At Raul, Welcome to the campaign!

JohnA
Northern_Lad
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United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, September 24, 2018 - 07:56 AM UTC
Hello,

I have a bit more progress to report on the Tamiya beute Valentine. All parts are on apart from the wheels and the Friul tracks which Iím still waiting for to arrive in the post.

I also need to add a shrouded German headlight and electric line to it. Maybe tomorrow. Iíve scratched the mount for it already. And the main gun could perhaps do with a little more sanding where the muzzle joins the barrel...

Here are the progress pics.







Cheers

Matthew
Northern_Lad
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Posted: Tuesday, September 25, 2018 - 05:07 AM UTC
Hello,

So Iíve added the German headlight and electric line to it.





Now I wait for the postman to bring the Friul tracks...

Cheers

Matthew
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Tuesday, September 25, 2018 - 07:41 AM UTC
Some inspiration, The Ragtag Circus:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7tlZDsNBkY
/ Robin
Northern_Lad
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Posted: Tuesday, September 25, 2018 - 08:43 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Some inspiration, The Ragtag Circus:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7tlZDsNBkY
/ Robin



Cool video! The 83rd clearly knew how to repurpose...
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, September 26, 2018 - 12:03 AM UTC
Looking good Matthew. One thing, the cable for the Bosch light does not enter the rear housing, it runs into the side of the base. The base has a large contact point in the centre which mates up to a similar contact in the upper section shaft. When the light is switched on the power goes from the cable into the base, then from the base wirelessly to the contact in the shaft of the upper section which then passes to the bulb. See diagram below for Kontactflache







Your bracket may be a little too high as it appears the normal tank mount is actually still being used just bolted or welded to the bracket..
Northern_Lad
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Posted: Thursday, September 27, 2018 - 02:02 AM UTC
@Peter: I never knew that was how contact was made in the Bosch headlight. This is really useful information. I will make some adjustments, including shortening the bracket. I think the bracket is an ad hoc add on by the Germans - not the British original, though itís hard to tell from my reference photo.
Cheers
Matthew
petbat
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Posted: Thursday, September 27, 2018 - 03:07 PM UTC
Yes, it is amazing what digging around in the internet will turn up. Over the years I've learned I had quite a few misconceptions myself.


Definitely an add on. Basically you should have the base to fit to the flat plate, the plate just needs to be on a lower strut to account for the height of the Bosch Base. You can see the rounded housing of the base facing the centre of the vehicle in the pic, so the cable runs into the base from outside, same as on a standard German tank fitting that side.
JohnDoe4th
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California, United States
Joined: March 03, 2016
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Posted: Monday, October 01, 2018 - 02:43 PM UTC
Hi All,
Some small progress over the weekend. Cab and Bed not glued down. Still need to paint the tools, straps on tanks and some touching up. Ill be doing this during the week.





Saturday night Ill be adding RAL 8020 Braun from AK Interactive (AK700) to the captured M3. The scheme I going for is from the battle of Sidi-Nsir, Tunisia February 1943.


All comments are welcome Gents!


JohnA
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Monday, October 01, 2018 - 09:25 PM UTC
Hi John. Looks good. Have you painted the floor pan under the steering wheel and on the passenger side, and on the rear of the fuel tanks? Still looks a little grey in the pic. Hard to get an airbrush into these forward places when the main parts are assembled. I have an old paint brush that I cut the handle off and drilled out the wood from inside the metal sleeve, then glued the metal parts to a length of styrene rod that I had heated up and curled the end into a kind of wide U shape. I use that for hard to get to places - and my fingers on occasion

Great for getting up under dash panels, etc when you want to do washes, filters and streaking as well.
JohnDoe4th
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California, United States
Joined: March 03, 2016
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Posted: Tuesday, October 02, 2018 - 03:14 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi John. Looks good. Have you painted the floor pan under the steering wheel and on the passenger side, and on the rear of the fuel tanks? Still looks a little grey in the pic. Hard to get an airbrush into these forward places when the main parts are assembled. I have an old paint brush that I cut the handle off and drilled out the wood from inside the metal sleeve, then glued the metal parts to a length of styrene rod that I had heated up and curled the end into a kind of wide U shape. I use that for hard to get to places - and my fingers on occasion

Great for getting up under dash panels, etc when you want to do washes, filters and streaking as well.



Hey Pete,
Yes I still need to touch up the cab interior BUT not going all out on this one. The DIY U-shape brush is an excellent idea!! That will come in handy for future projects and THANKS.

John
Northern_Lad
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Posted: Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 12:47 AM UTC
@ John, nice looking US halftrack!
@ Peter, thanks for the suggestions. I've made the adjustments to the Bosch headlight. Have a look:



Cheers

Matthew
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Friday, October 05, 2018 - 10:12 AM UTC
The support looks great now Matthew.

Me being me, I would probably have run the wire out the side horizontal a bit, then straight down the support and across the deck. But hey, you can't see it in the pic so artist's impression rules!

Keep up the good work
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, October 06, 2018 - 10:10 PM UTC
Had an open weekend and thought I'd start the Marder 3 Ausf M. I decided not to do the driver compartment or engine bay open so a lot of parts count drop. I'm saving the driver compartment interior bits for a Tamiya Marder 3 project.

I got a bit carried away and have construction about 80% complete. I am just about ready to start painting the fighting compartment interior. Parts loose fit here




The metal barrel is from Dragon's Marder 3 Ausf H, which I used as a base to make my own part scratch built 'Grille' - finished about the same time Dragon brought out a full kit of it...
d6mst0
#453
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Texas, United States
Joined: August 28, 2016
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Posted: Monday, October 08, 2018 - 01:02 PM UTC
Everyone,

I am calling my entry Dragon's T-34/76 German Army finished. Everything fitted just fine and I must say this is the first Dragon kit I built that didn't have a lot of leftover parts.
Any how, here are a few photos of the build.

Mark





petbat
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Monday, October 08, 2018 - 09:57 PM UTC
Very nicely done Mark. Thanks for joining in.