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Washing parts?
americanpanzer
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Posted: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 - 12:31 AM UTC
Is it necessary to wash styrene parts? I've done it for years; it was recommended because of mold-release agents; I understand it's a good idea with resin but is it needed anymore for styrene? thanks
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 - 12:39 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Is it necessary to wash styrene parts? I've done it for years; it was recommended because of mold-release agents; I understand it's a good idea with resin but is it needed anymore for styrene? thanks



I think it helps, not because of mold release but to remove finger oils, sanding dust, and general schmaltz accrued during building. There's no need to wash sprues because whatever is there won't affect cementing. Instead, I wash the model before I start painting.

KL
barkingdigger
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Posted: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 - 01:01 AM UTC
For me it depends. Most kits these days are fairly clean and can be built straight from the box, but there are some makers that still have too much oil on their sprues. (I did an old ICM kit that had more oil than my car!) Washing before painting is also a good idea, as Kurt says.
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 - 01:06 AM UTC
Depends on your skin and how/where you build.
Dry skin and no oils, grease or fats around when building reduces the need for washing.
Washing can be more or less important depending on the type of paint. Enamels tolerate more oil/grease/fat than acrylics.
Some manufacturers use more mold release than others.
Many years ago I built a T-35 tank (one of ICM's early releases I think). It was so oily that I had to start wiping it off with tissue paper before using white spirit and finally varm water and detergent.
/ Robin
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 - 01:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Many years ago I built a T-35 tank (one of ICM's early releases I think). It was so oily that I had to start wiping it off with tissue paper before using white spirit and finally varm water and detergent.
/ Robin



Yeah, some of those old eastern European kits looked more like Chinese tools with metal preservative on them.

KL
Bravo1102
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Posted: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 - 01:50 AM UTC
I also recommend washing your hands frequently during building, especially after eating.

I used to wear surgical gloves when handling kits to keep all oils off.

I had ICM and Maquette kits where the oil was dripping form the bagged parts. Had to use Simple Green degreaser and then grease cutting dish soap. Some of the re-issues of these kits by Ark still have oil issues so be careful.

Older Asian kits also had some issues like first issue Trumpeter or going further back a 1970 vintage Nichimo kit.
Vierville
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Posted: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 - 02:15 AM UTC
Also, dust residue from sanding the model can interfere with paint adhesion. I always give the model a bath in warm water with a little dishwashing liquid and then a rinse in clean warm water and leave it on a towel for a day or two to air dry before painting.

I never eat around my models during assembly but naturally the oils in one's skin will accumulate during building so its always a good idea to give the model a wash before painting.
pjmurley
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Posted: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 - 03:13 AM UTC
One good way to clean styrene from mold release agents is to use Ronsonol Lighter fluid- the type for old school Zippo lighters. It is excellent for prepping surfaces for paint.
JavierDeLuelmo
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Posted: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 - 04:03 AM UTC
Allways wash my models in warm water+ dishwasher before painting and this lessens a lot the need for a primer. In fact I never use primer except over metal parts.
PzDave
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Posted: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 - 05:59 AM UTC
I have never washed my model parts. Have been building since 1958. But I do live in a dry climate and I do wash my hands and I do not eat a Circle K Burrito before I start building!And I do use primers and oils/enamels ...never have used water based paints.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 - 07:02 AM UTC
During construction I wear non-latex, powder-free Kirkland brand gloves from Costco. About $15 for 400 pair. Keeps oils off the plastic. Before painting, I usually rinse the model under gently running warm water, which removes dust, construction debris, etc. I set the model under an upturned clear plastic bin with one edge hanging over the table to allow air circulation for a couple of days to dry. Depending on the project, I frequently use a lacquer based primer, or mix a bit of lacquer thinner into the paint to ensure adhesion.
VR, Russ
americanpanzer
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Posted: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 - 10:28 PM UTC
Thanks for all the feedback and input; appreciate it
tankmodeler
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Posted: Thursday, April 26, 2018 - 12:53 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Is it necessary to wash styrene parts?


Necessary?

No.

But, as you can see, it couldn't hurt?
americanpanzer
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Posted: Thursday, April 26, 2018 - 03:08 AM UTC
Agreed I will continue
Vicious
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Posted: Thursday, April 26, 2018 - 03:14 AM UTC
I have never washed my models except those in resin but until recently I used very little acrylics and in any case since the end of the '90s I always use the tamiya primer or now Stynylrez
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