login   |    register
Armor/AFV: Modern - USA
Modern Armor, AFVs, and Support vehicles.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Takom's M60A1 ERA
27-1025
Visit this Community
North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 942 posts
Armorama: 901 posts
Posted: Friday, September 14, 2018 - 06:20 AM UTC
Impressed with this kit and really hope Takom will go the M3 route and release a bunch of M60 versions. The only thing I'm planning to change is replacing the commanders cupola with one from the AFV Club kit - it's a drop fit. Started some work on the hull which to me has been much easier than the AFV Club kit. Did try to enhance the weld marks on the lower hull. Hoping it will look good under paint.







U-mark
Visit this Community
Michigan, United States
Joined: January 04, 2017
KitMaker: 82 posts
Armorama: 57 posts
Posted: Friday, September 14, 2018 - 07:20 AM UTC
Looks good Chris. I'll be following your build. The kit looks a lot less fiddly than the AFV kit. I too hope they will release more versions. Good Luck, Mark
rfbaer
Visit this Community
Texas, United States
Joined: June 12, 2007
KitMaker: 1,693 posts
Armorama: 1,542 posts
Posted: Friday, September 14, 2018 - 03:36 PM UTC
I'm working on a Takom M60, doing a slick using a Dragon M60 turret, and the AFV Club kit, same time, and I have to say the Takom kit has it for fine detail along with easy of assembly. I'll be watching this one too, very interested.
27-1025
Visit this Community
North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 942 posts
Armorama: 901 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 15, 2018 - 03:26 AM UTC
A bit more work on this. Very easy build, everything fits. The only fit error I found was with the left rear fender bracket which doesn't mate up to the hull side. Simple fix.









Here are the TC' cupolas, the kit one on the left and the AFV Club on he right.



Some of the ERA panels and the attachment hardware. It all fits like a glove. I test fitted them to the turret and upper hull without any problems.

GTDeath13
#481
Visit this Community
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: June 12, 2015
KitMaker: 761 posts
Armorama: 759 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 15, 2018 - 03:58 AM UTC
Very nice!!! Tuned in and watching, although I am still attached to the Tamiya kit with the DEF hull correction, Bronco tracks, PanzerArt wheels and the Verlinden ERA. Might ive them up for this kit.
panamadan
Visit this Community
Minnesota, United States
Joined: July 20, 2004
KitMaker: 944 posts
Armorama: 887 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 15, 2018 - 06:09 AM UTC
nice, but it looks like the outrigger is not touching the hull.
Dan
WilliamDeCicco
#161
Visit this Community
New York, United States
Joined: May 03, 2010
KitMaker: 380 posts
Armorama: 364 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 15, 2018 - 07:36 AM UTC
I just ordered this kit, to put on a Meng M911 tank transport for a ODS diorama. Did any M1A1/A2's Abrams go on a M911 tank transport?

I will be following your build closely, I can't wait to see how it turns out. Looking incredible so far. Its inspiring.

Happy modeling
davidg
Visit this Community
Ontario, Canada
Joined: December 28, 2007
KitMaker: 44 posts
Armorama: 41 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 15, 2018 - 02:47 PM UTC
I am building this as well and I did get the rear fender supports to connect to the hull but it was a question of watching the angle of the fenders so they are straight and at 90 degrees to hull. The fenders are a bit of a pain to put on right. Also watch the rear turret basket. It was a real pain to get the brass bent just right and at the correct location. I think if I did it again I would build the whole turret basket and connect it to the turret and then add the photo etch. One thing I do like is the tracks, they might need some clean up, the rubber has weight and may give a subtle sage when put on. Keep you all posted.
Dave
Oh and I found on my build the gun mantle and bottom of turret rub on top of left and right sponson bin tops. Had to sand the bottom of the turret front down a bit but after I fitted the photo etch around gun cover
27-1025
Visit this Community
North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 942 posts
Armorama: 901 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 16, 2018 - 01:43 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I am building this as well and I did get the rear fender supports to connect to the hull but it was a question of watching the angle of the fenders so they are straight and at 90 degrees to hull. The fenders are a bit of a pain to put on right. Also watch the rear turret basket. It was a real pain to get the brass bent just right and at the correct location. I think if I did it again I would build the whole turret basket and connect it to the turret and then add the photo etch. One thing I do like is the tracks, they might need some clean up, the rubber has weight and may give a subtle sage when put on. Keep you all posted.
Dave
Oh and I found on my build the gun mantle and bottom of turret rub on top of left and right sponson bin tops. Had to sand the bottom of the turret front down a bit but after I fitted the photo etch around gun cover



Good tips. I'll keep an eye out for those areas. Working on the turret basket now and that's the route I'm taking. Attached the plastic parts first and will attached the annealed brass parts afterwards.
27-1025
Visit this Community
North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 942 posts
Armorama: 901 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 16, 2018 - 05:49 AM UTC
Some additional work on the turret. The surface texture is much more subtle than on the AFV Club kits.







GTDeath13
#481
Visit this Community
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: June 12, 2015
KitMaker: 761 posts
Armorama: 759 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 16, 2018 - 06:22 AM UTC
Are the holes on the turret necessary?
27-1025
Visit this Community
North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 942 posts
Armorama: 901 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 16, 2018 - 06:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Are the holes on the turret necessary?



Locator holes for the ERA panels.
27-1025
Visit this Community
North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 942 posts
Armorama: 901 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 05:46 AM UTC
Coming along nicely. The only hiccup has been the PE mesh for the stowage basket. I've annealed it multiple times but it keeps popping free at the ends. A little more CA needed. About ready for some primer and I'll be pre-shading this one since it has a light color overall. Also still need to add some microchain for various retaining chains on the vehicle. Using the PE chain from Hauler Model.







TopSmith
Visit this Community
Washington, United States
Joined: August 09, 2002
KitMaker: 1,076 posts
Armorama: 1,020 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 03:34 PM UTC
The tow cables are very stiff and would not drape over the rear deck.
skyshark
Visit this Community
North Carolina, United States
Joined: November 16, 2005
KitMaker: 626 posts
Armorama: 441 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 05:44 PM UTC
How easy is it to make US Army version
skyshark
Visit this Community
North Carolina, United States
Joined: November 16, 2005
KitMaker: 626 posts
Armorama: 441 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 05:45 PM UTC
Yea Dragon has the M48 AVLB. Hey Takom how about a M60 AVLB
Bravo1102
Visit this Community
New Jersey, United States
Joined: December 08, 2003
KitMaker: 2,176 posts
Armorama: 1,872 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 08:10 PM UTC

Quoted Text

How easy is it to make US Army version


Build it as a normal M60A1 without the ERA and put Army markings on it.
27-1025
Visit this Community
North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 942 posts
Armorama: 901 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 01:01 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The tow cables are very stiff and would not drape over the rear deck.



That might be tough to fix but I'll give it a shot.....
27-1025
Visit this Community
North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 942 posts
Armorama: 901 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 01:02 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

How easy is it to make US Army version


Build it as a normal M60A1 without the ERA and put Army markings on it.



That's what I'm planning on doing.
Sleepwalker71
Visit this Community
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 30, 2012
KitMaker: 149 posts
Armorama: 134 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 01:40 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

The tow cables are very stiff and would not drape over the rear deck.



That might be tough to fix but I'll give it a shot.....



You need to anneal the cable. I assume it is a copper one. Just grab one end with a plier and heat it up uniformly over a kitchen burner until red. Don't touch it with a bare hand. When red quickly cool it down in the water. Colder water will give softer cable.
zapper
Visit this Community
Skåne, Sweden
Joined: October 18, 2005
KitMaker: 697 posts
Armorama: 687 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 04:21 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

The tow cables are very stiff and would not drape over the rear deck.



That might be tough to fix but I'll give it a shot.....



You need to anneal the cable. I assume it is a copper one. Just grab one end with a plier and heat it up uniformly over a kitchen burner until red. Don't touch it with a bare hand. When red quickly cool it down in the water. Colder water will give softer cable.



I think Gregs's comment are aimed at the opposite. The real steel tow cables are stiff and do not drape after the contoures of the engine deck very much.


Very interesting build Chris. Thanks for taking the time to post it up here.

Cheers,
/E
27-1025
Visit this Community
North Carolina, United States
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 942 posts
Armorama: 901 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 06:43 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

The tow cables are very stiff and would not drape over the rear deck.



That might be tough to fix but I'll give it a shot.....



You need to anneal the cable. I assume it is a copper one. Just grab one end with a plier and heat it up uniformly over a kitchen burner until red. Don't touch it with a bare hand. When red quickly cool it down in the water. Colder water will give softer cable.



I think Gregs's comment are aimed at the opposite. The real steel tow cables are stiff and do not drape after the contoures of the engine deck very much.


Very interesting build Chris. Thanks for taking the time to post it up here.

Cheers,
/E



After studying some pictures after the fact I see what everyone is talking about. Fixing it without destroying the engine deck is another matter. Need to see how debonder reacts to the plastic first.
sgtreef
Visit this Community
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 5,913 posts
Armorama: 4,267 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 01:33 PM UTC
Should not be that bad to get it off there, pry slowly with a chisel blade xacto blade, somebody makes a gel super glue remover. Or throw some stowage on the parts that bend down a little.

Looks great overall.
Nice looking kit.
TopSmith
Visit this Community
Washington, United States
Joined: August 09, 2002
KitMaker: 1,076 posts
Armorama: 1,020 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 02:13 PM UTC
I have used Rustoleum's Terri Cotta paint to put nonslip texture on the tank. If there is some damage to the back deck, clean it up, smooth it out and apply the nonslip texture. should look as good as new. Just remember the nonslip was applied to certain areas not just all over. I think Gino has the pattern. Here is my back deck with the Rustolium Terri Cotta paint applied.

ironhull
Visit this Community
Venezia, Italy
Joined: November 23, 2013
KitMaker: 118 posts
Armorama: 118 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 05:16 PM UTC
It's first time I heard about non slip texture on US M60A1. I'm really interested in its pattern.