Hi!
I finished painting my Jagdpanther in the typical three-tones German camouflage.
Now I would like to apply some filters to vary the colours on those beautiful plain surfaces... which colours would you use?
I thought Sienna (oil) or an earth colour (Humbrol enamel).
Moreover, I would not cover my model with a satin varnish before applying the filter (as specified in many internet sites and articles), since I don't have an airbrush, and it's difficult to find such a varnish in the spray can format. I could as well apply some well-thinned Tamiya gloss clear, but the possible result frightens me...
What would happen if I apply the filters on a MATT surface? And what would you do?
Thanks!

Giacomo

Giacomo -

I'm by no means an 'expert' and just learning about the techniques finer points as I go. Before I applied 'washes' to my Dragon JagdPanther, I tried the Future Floor Wax (an acrylic gloss) and brushed a thinned coat of it over entire model. Then used Artist's oils, thinned with turpentine to do the 'washes' . Seems to have worked out pretty well and really aided the 'capillary action' and flow of washes. I will do some more after final detailing and weathering. Hope this helps some,

Blade48mrd

Hello Giacomo,

As long as you do not use too much thinner with your flat brush to remove the oils, it should not affect the underlying paint. Remove the majority of the thinner with a paper towel and then remove the oils with vertical brush strokes. The photos below show the effect on a matt acrylic surface with no varnish coat applied.

Frank

Well, here are some things to consider and think about. If you dont have an airbrush, go hit your local hobby store and get some model maste clear gloss and clear flat spray paints. First spray on the gloss color and let it cure for a day or so before applying your wash. This will protect your base color. Once cured, you can apply your wash. Colors to use for a wash depend on a lot of differant things. Are you trying to bring out the detail of the model using shadow or the color of the ground work where it will be placed? If your trying to simulate shadow, generally, I use testors Schwarzgrau or German Gray mixed with some of the vehicles color and turpenoid to simulate shadow. Now, there is "over shadow" and "under shadow". For example, go outside and look at your car in the sunlight. You'll notice the bottom of the car has darker shadows as opposed to subtle details on the top of the car that have lighter shadows. You should do your model similairly. Using a lighter shadow on top surfaces and a darker shadow on bottom surfaces. Generally, I use a lighter brown color mixed with the vehicles color to simulate "over-shadows". When your finished with your washes, drybrush the vehicles color around washed areas to remove excess wash and give it a realistic appearance. Once your done with this process, you can add simulated mud, sand, etc along the bottom in a general pattern where the tracks or tires would have kicked it up. Once that is finished, apply your decals. You will find decals apply much better to a glossy surface then a matt surface giving you less "silvering" of the decals. After your decals are dry, apply your spray dull coat to the whole model. This will seal in your wash, decals, and side dirt and leave the vehicle with a dull matt finish. Just remember to mask any clear plastic parts prior to spraying either the dull coat or the gloss coat. Hope that helps. Have fun, and post some pictures when your done so we can appreciate your work!

My apologies if Giacomo was asking about washes. I thought he was inquiring about filters. This confusion has occured in the past,... but at least Giacomo now has advice on both washes and filters.

Frank

I really like the effect you've done there-it looks like sun bleached paint where the pigments are starting to show themselves. At the same time, I think your photos show why a varnish coat is preferable.

Could you elaborate on why you think that a varnish coat is preferable? I don't have that much experience with filters. This KV-2 turret was used as a test bed of sorts to show the differences between filtering and washes

Frank

A varnish coat of some sort-gloss or matte-will help eliminate the decal edge as seen in the photo. I've found Walther's DDV to be the best I've ever used, but Testor's Gloss and Dull Cotes usually work adequately enough.

Thanks 18Bravo,

That makes sense,... considering the thickness of the decal on this old Tamiya KV2 turret, your suggestions would do the trick.... thanks for the advice.

Frank

Thank you so much guys!
And thanks to Chunky for posting those photos, I found them very useful to understand how it works!
If the problem is the decal film, I found a way to sort it out, just by applying some Humbrol Matt Clear (by brush) on the decal when it's dry, and of course removing the most of the film before (easy on the decals with few numbers and codes, such as American stars or German crosses).
I already done it with my Sherman (made dirty with a brown pencil powdered and thinned with Humbrol thinner and rain streaks with Tamiya's Buff+water) and it seemed to work
.
This is how my Jagdpanther looks like (this is the Tamiya original photo)

Do you think a technique like the one described in your posts will work on such a various camouflage as well?
And what colours should I use? Dark Earth, Burnt Sienna, Raw Umber, Dark Green, Yellow, White, Blue, Ochre...?
Thanks again for your help!

Giacomo

Hi,
I'd say it is essential to satin cote your model before filters. First, for some reason they work better than with flat cote. Secondly, it protects your underlying paint coat.
If you don't have air brush, you can use Future floor polish with hand brush. I've done it many times and if not painted too thick, works very well.
As for filters, I use mainly Humbrols as they spread more evenly compared to oils. Even oils have finer pigment they tend to spread into "clouds", not evenly as with Humbrols. Of course that can be something to experiment with.
Shades of filters. This depends on what you want to your model look like. IMHO, filters are not for waethering but ALTERING the shades of camo colors. It also "binds" colors and contrasting surfaces together by toning them down. You can try with any color you like! You can always "correct" the inproper filter with next one. This will naturally after many filters to darken your model so I'd say that 10 filters could be the maximum. Oh, and for shades, I use like Humbrol browns, oranges etc.
Remember to thin your filters enough so those won't come out as washes! Effect of filters shoudln't be seen before drying.
As Frank Portela had done, preshading paint areas would be nice addition to create contrasts to surface. Filters work better with contrasting colors ie. camo colors.
Actually in theory you could paint your model with white and filter it to final color:) Well, not quite but hope you see my meaning.
Please try out filters and washes and share your results:)

Niko