1⁄35251 mit Wurfrahmen
stages 13 to 16These stages deal with the construction of the side fenders, and all their fittings, tools, lights and width indicators etc. The width indicators are provided in brass, and I think should be included in all Dragon 251 kits. There is even a moulded on jig on one of the sprues to help bend them correctly! Please note that the sledgehammer, part C26 on the instructions is actually on the sprue as B26. Also, for some reason the Notek light is not numbered on the instructions, but is actually part C12. Another tip when installing the internal detail to the sidewalls, is to remove all the locating ribs moulded on, as most of them are not used in this version and will really be visible when finished. The same goes for more locating ribs on the outside of the upper hull and the rear plate, although curiously, the instructions mention removing the ones for the jerry can holders on the outside of the doors, since the jerry can holders are not used in this version also. The welded scalloped fillets for under the fenders are provided a photo-etched pieces for this kit, and I found that these could be held in place by simply running some styrene cement under each part to soften the plastic. I began painting at this stage, since access to the inside of the hull is difficult when it’s fully assembled. I began by an all over coat of black, followed by a light misting of dark yellow, and then a heavier coat of yellow in the centre of panels, around details etc. I followed this by brush painting details such as the machine guns, crew benches, radio and dashboard etc. It’s important to do the same with the inside of the upper hull, as obviously this is just as difficult to reach once assembled! When constructing the hull, I’ve found through building 10 of these 251 kits, that there is a trick to getting everything lined up properly. As long as everything concerning the lower hull is correctly aligned as mentioned earlier, then begin by joining the front engine armour plate to the upper hull. Locate this assembly in place over the lower hull, at this stage don’t try fitting the rear plate! Whilst holding the upper hull in position, run some watery super glue carefully along the join between upper and lower hulls, it should be drawn along the join by capillary action, and is helped by a little super glue accelerator. Super gluing an inch or so at a time, it should be possible to align everything exactly without too much trouble. When all the glue had properly cured, the rear plate without the doors was fixed into position and fitted exactly! I left the doors off at this point, so that I could paint them later, but did cement all the fittings into position such as the hinges, fire extinguisher etc.
Copyright ©2019 by Vinnie Branigan. Images and/or videos also by copyright holder unless otherwise noted. The views and opinions expressed herein are solely the views and opinions of the authors and/or contributors to this Web site and do not necessarily represent the views and/or opinions of Armorama, KitMaker Network, or Silver Star Enterrpises. All rights reserved. Originally published on: 2005-10-03 00:00:00. Unique Reads: 20827