SKP Model has a nice range of AM sets for exterior and interior, tow cables, decals, along with a good line of figures. The great thing is, they are relatively inexpensive for what you get, which is a big thumbs up in todayís economic climate.
Maybach were a prominent engine manufacturer for German vehicles in the Second World War. To date, SKP have produced the Maybach HL 42 for the AFV Club Sd.kfz. 251, Reviewed Here
on Armorama, and the Maybach HL 42 for the AFV Club Sd.kfz.11, which is dealt with in this review.
The kit arrived in a silver colored box with a CAD image of the engine shown proudly on the front. The box is a firm corrugated cardboard, and will ensure that the parts donít get damaged in transit. When taking a look in the box, the immediate thing that strikes you is the colour of the resin, itís blue! (Take that carpet monster!) There were no bubbles or imperfections visible in my sample.
There are 2 separate, resealable bags of resin items, one bag contains the main engine block whilst the other contains the required part of the chassis where the engine sits, radiator, fan, and various engine details. The casting blocks are fairly good apart from the radiator, which is cast flat, and looks to be a pain to remove even with the correct tools.
The detail is fairly crisp on the engine block, both sides rendered in good detail and it looks to be pretty close to the real thing despite the size. The radiator, as it is moulded flat, only has detail on one side, but Iím sure with some mesh and spare styrene it would be pretty simple to add your own detailing to the other side. The air filter is sharply detailed, but after removing the plug, you will have to make a small indent to compensate for a little missing detail.
The instructions are easy to follow in the construction department, but have no real painting guide. There is a colour line drawing of the engine of the front of the instructions, coloured in dark yellow, with some details in grey, the exhaust brown, and the cap on top of the engine red. As there are no other colour instructions, I took this picture to be my painting reference for the project. (NOTE) There is one mistake in the instructions that I have to call out, in step 5, part A16 in the instructions is actually part A23. I got quite confused about that for a while, so remember whatever you build, to double check your part, part shape, and part number before you glue it on, luckily Iím not talking from experience but Iím sure my time will come.
Unlike the kit for the 251, this model does not come with any PE or instructions on placing fan belts, but Iím sure if you take a look at any engine picture or diagram it will be simple to work out.
I have decided to build this before I place it in the kit, so for now I canít comment on how it fits with the AFV Club kit.
Section 1of the instructions deals with parts D27, C22, C25 and C24 from the AFV Club kit. A large amount of surgery takes place on part D27, cutting off the lower section between the front mudguards. On part C22, the semi-circular housing is removed on the driverís side, and on the engine side parts of the firewall are thinned. Lastly, the front of the chassis on part C24 is entirely removed.
Section 2 is the addition of the resin footplate on to part D27. This is fairly simple and the footplate is well detailed and easily removed from the plugs.
Section 3 deals with the main engine block, focusing on the left hand side. The parts fit well, the only thing to watch out for on this step is the removal of the casting plug on the engine block.
Section 4 deals with the LHS again, but this time you add more concise details such as the exhaust outlet (A2) and other various attachments. Take care cleaning up part A2 as there are some fine details very close to the casting plug.
Section 5 contains the only mistake in the instructions; the part labeled A16 in the instructions is actually part A23. This section concentrates with the smaller details on the right hand side of the engine.
Section 6 adds the air filter, part A30, and attachment point to the engine, A16(the real one) and A26.
Now the engine is coming to shape, and we only have to add a few more bits. Section 7 deals with the entirely new front chassis (A13) and various details using parts A22, A6, A12, and A11.
The final step places part A1 into the AFV Club part C24, adds the fan to the engine (A9) and attaches the radiator to the chassis (A14). The engine can now be dropped into the chassis, finishing off with the mounts and coolant hose.
I painted my engine before fitting into place, using the colour guide on the front. I painted the bulk of the engine in dark yellow, with the upper cap red. The radiator was finished in dark grey, and the lighter grey parts on the colour guide I interpreted as metallic. After the colours were blocked in, I washed the engine in a burnt umber/black oil wash, and set aside to dry for pigments.